ELLOINOS » Papayianni Claudia

Meeting with Julia Harding, Master of Wine, in London

elloinos — Fri, 17 Apr 2009 09:57:00 +0000

I just came back from a 5-day trip to London, where I took my three eldest children for a Easter treat. We stayed with different friends and I took my kids to all the tourist attractions – a double-decker bus tour, Tower of London, Natural History Museum, London Aquarium, London Eye, Science Museum, Musical (Joseph and the Amazing Technicolour Dreamcoat), Primrose Hill…

On 15th April, which was our last night, I had booked a room at the Hyatt Andaz Hotel in Liverpool Street. Actually, we were upgraded to stay at a suite, which was perfect. I did bring 6 different wines along from Athens, as I had arranged to meet with Julia Harding, Master of Wine and the right hand of Jancis Robinson , Master of Wine. I arrived at the hotel at 6 pm and went to their flagship restaurant 1901 to see the sommelier. Joris Beijn is the head sommelier and wine buyer at the Andaz. I explained my plans and he was extremly helpful: He decanted the 5 red wines, cooled the white wine, organised a large private table at the 1901, provided glasses and spittoon – I am extremly grateful for his efforts. Joris simply wanted to help, and he went out of his way to provide the best service. Julia arrived at 8 pm and we made our way to the 1901. Julia was impressed with the venue and the setting, and was delighted to see a spittoon I did bring the following wines, which were tasted in this order:

Palivou Estate – Terra Leone – Ammos reserve – 2005 – Agiorgitiko
Parparoussis – Taos – 2004 (released in 2008) – Mavrodaphne
Dalamaras – Paliokalias – 2006 – Xinomavro
Thimiopoulos – Ghi ke Uranos – 2006 – Xinomavro
Kokkalis – Trilogia – 2006 – Cabernet Sauvignon
Claudia Papayianni – Claudia Papayianni white – 2007 – 40% Malagousia, 30% Assyrtico, 30% Chardonnay, 4 month aged in oak

We spent two hours tasting and discussing the wines. It was extremly interesting to see how a busy Master of Wine with lots and lots of tasting experience is evaluating the wines. Julia has a great personality and shared all her thoughts. She liked all the wines and of course wrote down her tasting notes in private, so no insights from me on scores etc But this was not the reason I wanted to meet her anyway. I wanted to show her wines from Greece that only few people know abroad. Wines that show their terroir. Wines one can talk about for more than just a few minutes. I believe I have succeeded in doing so. I can only reveal that Joris, who tried all wines before decanting them, was extremly fond of the Parparoussis Taos and the Kokkalis Trilogia. Julia commented on the Papayianni white that she was impressed with the density and the aromas of the wine (note: the vines are all still very young, as this is a fairly new estate), and that the world needs more wines like this in a similar price range.

When we finished the tasting after two hours, I left the opened wines with Joris to enjoy them with his staff. I had to rush back to my room, where the DVD I had put on for my children just before I met with Julia had long finished. Luckily they were tired out from the days before and had gone to bed.

Julia, thanks for giving me the opportunity to show you some Greek wines! I had a great time that evening. Joris, thank you so much for your kind help, it was appreciated a lot!

Claudia Papayianni, Arnea

elloinos — Tue, 17 Mar 2009 07:46:00 +0000

On the 5th March I visited Claudia Papayianni and her father at her estate in Arnea, Chalkidiki. Claudia’s mother is German, her father is Greek. She started to create a 25-hectare vineyard at an altitude of 650 m in 2003. She organically grows Malagousia, Assyrtico, Xinomavro and other regional varieties. At the end of 2006 the construction of a 3300 square meter winery started. The result is a state of the art showpiece. Claudia is a perfectionist. Her work is driven by attention to the smallest detail. The winery includes offices, a tasting room, a shop where the wines can be purchased, a wine-theater in the size of a cinema room with a screen and a glasswall that opens the view directly into the winery, an area where the temperature of each tank and the whole winery is computer controlled, a large cellar and an adjacent cellar room with space to keep older vintages. The outside area includes a large terrace with a BBQ, so that visitors can easily be entertained with food and wine. I was impressed by the sheer size of it all. This is a place I can highly recommend for anyone to visit.

Papayianni Claudia, Arnaia

elloinos — Mon, 23 Feb 2009 11:29:00 +0000

The vines for the reds are very young (3 to 5 years). The quality here should improve steadily over the next years. The whites are all very good.
2008 Ex Arnon white – VdP Macedonia, 50% Assyrtico, 50% Chardonnay 16
Pale straw colour. The nose bursts with exotic fruits. The palate is rich and dominated by ripe peaches and bananas. The wine has a very good texture. AVIN9104641631928
2008 Alexandra white – VdP Halkidiki, 100% Malagousia 16.5
Pale silver colour. Deep on the nose with minerals and exotic fruits. The palate is rich and deep, with layers and layers of exotic fruits. The finish lasts quite long, this is a fine wine. AVIN1928790359919
2008 CP white – VdP Halkidiki, 50% Viognier, 50% Organic agricultured Assyrtico 16.5
Light silver/straw colour. Very rich nose of mango and peaches, also some minerals. Rich on the palate, very fresh and crisp at the same time. Fine. AVIN1190893462111
2008 Claudia Papayianni white – Oak aged, VdP Halkidiki, 40% Chardonnay, 30% Assyrtico, 30% Malagousia 17
Straw/silver colour. Rich and elegant aromas of exotic fruits. Medium bodied in weight, the fruits explode in the mouth. A very fine wine that will age for some years. AVIN9179145223825
2008 Claudia Papayianni rosé- VdP Halkidiki, 80% Grenache, 20% Syrah organic 16
Medium deep bright pink colour. The nose is dominated by the Grenache and shows flowers and strawberries. On the palate one finds a lot of fresh red summer fruits, this is delicious. AVIN9553596707200
2008 Nikolas red – Oak aged, VdP Halkidiki, 100% Merlot 14.5
Medium dark bright cherry colour. Nose of cherries and plums. Medium bodied, nice cherry fruit, soft tannis, with a descent length. AVIN2143140301106
2007 CP red – Oak aged, VdP Halkidiki, 80% Xinomavro, 20% Syrah 13.5
Medium deep bright cherry red colour. Bit closed on the nose with some tomatoes and dried plums. Medium bodied with soft tannins, again some dried plums making their way through, but at this stage the wine seems closed.
2007 Claudia Papayianni red – Oak Aged, VdP Halkidiki, 40% Syrah, 40% Merlot, 20% Xinomavro 16.5
Medium dark black cherry colour. Good nose of red fruits and exotic spices. Also some oak elements. Medium weight, with a good structure. Very good. AVIN8421505537983
2006 Claudia Papayianni red – Oak Aged, VdP Halkidiki, 40% Syrah, 40% Merlot, 20% Xinomavro 17
Medium dark red cherry colour. Fine nose of spices and red fruits. Full bodied on the palate, quite modern style. The wine has a great texture. AVIN5779039348593
2007 Lino red – Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon 15
Medium dark red cherry colour. Nose dominated by red berries. Medium bodied, it is dominated by fresh red berries and some vanilla. A pleasing red.