Annette and I decided to follow our common dream to produce top quality wines from Xinomavro. Five years ago, we settled in the far north of Greece just outside Amyndeo and built a modern, eco-friendly winery. Our son Joris was born just before the foundations of the building were laid. I am the winemaker, Annette works the vineyards.

We chose Amyndeo exclusively for its semi-continental climate, the stunning terroir, and of course because of the local Xinomavro clone that has been called “Popolka” for many centuries, and still is today. North West Macedonia has a winemaking tradition that reaches back more than 3000 years. This claim is supported by recent excavations and archaeological research. We are from Northern Europe, and Xinomavro from Amyndeo is the perfect match to our personalities.

Amyndeo is located next to the lake Vegoritis, at an altitude of 650 metres (2100 feet). It is surrounded by 3 giant mountains. The climate exhibits cool nights and hot days during summer, with plenty of rainfalls and snow during the cold winter. Amyndeo has the coolest climate of all wine producing regions of Greece.

Until recently, the wine business in this region was dominated by the local Coop and the huge winemaking factories like Tsantali and Boutari. All of them bought grapes from the local farmers, who were paid by the weight of the grapes. It is my view that this policy led to a decline in the quality: Many farmers started the excessive use of pesticides and chemical fertilizers, and also applied watering to the vineyards in order to further increase the yields. This resulted in unripe, highly acidic grapes that were unable to yield balanced wines. The other Xinomavro producing regions of Goumenissa and Naoussa have also faced similar problems. The winemaking methods employed (huge tanks, filtration, and pumps) also limit the potential quality of the wine.

We rely on biological and biodynamic farming practises to achieve balance in our vineyards. Our 4.5 ha are planted with Xinomavro vines that are more than 30 years old. In addition, we own a plot of just 0.25 ha with ungrafted, pre-phylloxera Xinomavro vines that are more than 100 years old. From these vines we manage to produce just 250 bottles per year, with yields of only 7.5 hl/ha.

For us, the progress made by some talented winemakers from Naoussa like Thimiopoulos or Haroula Spinthiropoulou from the Argatia winery is very important. At the same time, we want to learn from the way the local people produced wines in the old days. Back then, the wine was fermented in oak, wild yeasts were used, pumps did not exist, no filtration was applied, and extended skin contact took place. We replicate this in our winery, which is a three storey, gravity-flow building. Our respect for the environment is an integral part of the winery design.

One of the most interesting aspects of Xinomavro from Amyndeo is the capability to produce highly aromatic rosé wines, subtle blanc de noirs, remarkable red wines with serious ageing potential, and exceptional sparkling, blanc de noir based wines. The latter can only be achieved by using the method traditionelle. Xinomavro grapes have the correct chemical composition to yield sparkling wines with a tremendous mousse, and everlasting creamy, soft and mouth-filling bubbles. The combination of the natural acidity and the aromatic characteristics of the grapes resemble the famous Epernay blanc de noir wines. This is remarkable but not surprising, as many wine experts compare the still red Xinomavro wines to the classic Pinot Noir wines from Burgundy.

Our dream is to produce world class wines exclusively from Xinomavro in Amyndeo. I believe we are on the right track, but I know that it will take more time and hard work. Until we succeed in our quest, many winemakers will continue to blend Xinomavro with other varieties. I see nothing wrong with this approach. We, the winemakers, should all cooperate and share our knowledge amongst each other. I hope that our son Joris and his friends, who were born at the same time as our Domaine, will make truly iconic Xinomavro wines. This will then close our circle!

Please keep in mind that Naoussa was declared the “City of Wine and Vine” in 1987, the year before the newspaper article was printed. At this time there were numerous events focusing on Xinomavro.

Konstantinos Dalamaras (to be seen in the photo that was taken in 1949):

The past year was the year of wine and vines for Naoussa, and there were numerous discussions on the subject. I carefully followed all the lectures and read all that was written about related issues. Undoubtedly, everything was very interesting and will benefit our vineyards and our wine.

But I too, after many years of practice in the vineyards, would like to mention a few things on the topic, starting with the years 1925-26. I was then an eleven year-old child and my father took me to our vineyard. The vines grown were the local variety Xinomavro which we called the “Black of Naoussa”. The stump most commonly had three branches, sometimes four.  We left two new shoots on every branch, each of which gave one bunch of grapes.

The original ungrafted vines that were growing on our local vineyard soil had great resistance to drought, as opposed to today’s grafted vines that use American or French rootstocks that are common in most vineyards. As a result, we have to talk about whether the Naoussa vineyards need watering or not.  I will refer to my observations I’ve made over 28 years.

I have a five acre vineyard (Editor’s note: This is the old original part of today’s Paliokalia vineyards) that is slightly inclined and that I do not water at all. During dry years when the drought is strong, one of the five acres demands water, else it does not produce good quality grapes. This is because the components of the earth are different from the other four acres. So we see that the soil composition and the slope of the plot both play an important role. Some soils need water, others, such as the more heavy soils, do not.

We cannot make an absolute statement that Naoussa vines need watering or not. And by “watering” I do not refer to regular watering, but only to watering when there is great need because a year is extremely dry. In this case, the vineyard is asking to be watered; this would typically take place around the second fortnight of July. This technique should rarely be applied for a second time, if we want to achieve high quality grapes.

Also we should not clog the young vines, but ensure that there is rich foliage on the tops of the vines during the ripening period, as the leaves will help with nutrition and the ripening process.

In Naoussa it was considered correct that any vineyard should be on a slope facing east so that the morning dew evaporates with the first rays of the sun. If the dew is exposed immediately to the strong sun at a later time of the day, the vine suffers from mildew and other diseases.

When the vines got too old, they were not simply replaced: A cut was taken from the roots so that it grew anew, creating a new vine from itself. This was called “Gerontofytia” (Editor’s note: old plants).

In the decade of 1930 almost all the local vineyards were destroyed by phylloxera. It was then that most vines had to be replaced with American or French rootstocks, which were thought to be resistant to phylloxera. Unfortunately, these vines did not last long, because in the 1940′s the agriculture for peaches, apples, and pears started to flourish. Only few vines were left as a result, among which were our own.

From then onwards, grapes from other regions started coming to Naoussa, more often from Saint Panteleimon, which is known as Pateli. The grapes from Pateli are the same variety but not of the same quality. In the end, it is the specificity of the soil and the climate of Naoussa, which make the wines originating from Naoussa so special.

Finally, I would like to tell current and prospective growers that by working conscientiously, with passion and by relying on the advice of experts, we can make high quality wine. By doing this, we can lift and position Naoussa’s image as the city of wine and vine, as it rightly deserves!

Voice of Naoussa Saturday, March 5, 1988

Konstantinos Dalamaras was 73 years old at the time of this interview. Today, he is 96 years old and still enjoys walks in the vineyards and a glass of red wine each afternoon.

The Dalamaras family still grows the original “old black Naoussa” vines mentioned in the newspaper article by applying the technique of “Gerontofytia”. The ungrafted vines are now more than 90 years old. The label “Vignes Franches” is produced from these vines and is distributed in a very limited number of bottles in the French and Japanese markets.

“The number of wineries in Naoussa has remained the same for quite some years, but the vineyard acreage keeps shrinking. The trend for the demolition of large parts of European vineyards with the blessings of the Common Market Organisation for wine has not left the homeland of Xinomavro unaffected. Like everywhere else in Europe, growers in this region decided it was time to invest in other types of crops.

The difference between the vineyards in other countries and the ones in Naoussa is that abroad, only plots were flattened that did not primarily or not at all concern PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) areas. Sadly, this is not the case in the great area of Naoussa.

The paradox is that Xinomavro is currently the most sought-after Greek red indigenous variety both in Greece and abroad. One would therefore expect the capital of this grape to be on the rise, rather than in decline.

What is the cause for this? Local growers blame the state which did not care enough about the sector. True, but the state hasn’t cared about any agricultural sector for a long time. What did we do to promote what we produce? Not that much!

Naoussa has been called “City of wine and vine” for the past 23 years. Its more than twenty wine producers have not made any move in the past to cooperate with local organizations in order to encourage a wine culture amongst consumers.  Instead, they engaged in a small minded battle among themselves to conquer the local market with very poorly made 187ml bottles, which along with their appalling storage transformed any wine into vinegar! A forgotten museum of wine and vine; some cut open barrel-halves that hold plants in the central streets of town and some sandstone sculptures are the only things reminiscent of a wine culture.

I had to laugh when a visitor asked me to suggest a good wine-bar where he could drink 4-5 Naoussa wines by the glass in order to compare vineyards!

Furthermore Naoussa producers themselves downgraded Xinomavro by engaging in discussions about “blending partners”. Instead of being their own strongest advocates of the grape, they started discussing the possible use of Merlot or Syrah in Naoussa PDO! At a time where everyone was looking for Xinomavro wines they used to respond that “Xinomavro may be quite good but it is just not sufficient without foreign grape varieties”. Imagine Burgundy or Piemont producers promoting Pinot-Merlot or Nebbiolo-Syrah! As if the true potential of the variety has been exhausted and all that can be done to “improve” it is through international varieties!

It is a shame that the area has already lost some great vineyards. Even if at some time in the future things will take an upward turn, it will take a very long time to rebuild what has been destroyed now.

On the other hand it is positive that the Naoussa wine producers finally created the common name “Naoussa Wines” to carry out collective promotional activities. In addition, many businesses have engaged young people who have been educated on the subject and bring along experience from the global wine sector.  Significant improvements may soon become evident.

Naoussa with Xinomavro is one of the four varieties that serve as ambassadors for the Greek vineyard. There is an unlimited potential for wine production, thanks to diverse mosaic subsoil that can lead to the production of extraordinary wines, depending on the specific region. It is ironic to reduce the vineyards at a time when demand for Xinomavro from Naoussa is on the rise.

Let’s hope that everyone who loves and grows Xinomavro will soon implement the necessary steps to reverse the situation. We all should strive to produce wines that will vindicate those who have invested in this area.”

In this Q&A, Stellios gives his personal view on a number of issues.

1. When did you start making wine?

My family has been making wine for more than a century.  However it has been only since 2004 that I got involved more actively in the winemaking side of the business. I have studied mathematics and economics, so I am a self taught winemaker!  I cannot think of a better job, there is nothing more exciting than following the magic when grapes turn into wine.

2. From your viewpoint, what makes the Xinomavro variety special?

For me, its difficulty makes it special. I have a love-hate relationship with Xinomavro. It is such a difficult variety to
grow and I feel that we have not yet truly mastered it. But we are getting close, we know what we are doing, in the next 5 to 7 years we will see the emergence of truly great wines from the Xinomavro variety.  We focus on preserving the best of today’s characteristics, like the aromas, and the sheer elegance that these wines offer. At the same time, we want to bring out new elements like a softer tannin structure, a fuller body, and a more balanced acidity.

3. Do you export part of your production? How do you promote your wines?

Although we export only 15% of our total production, more than 60% of Ramnista, our 100% Xinomavro wine, is sold abroad.  We focus on the high end of the market and engage in one-on-one marketing activities, like tasting events and wine dinners. Unfortunately, we have not managed to get full mainstream distribution yet in the main export markets.  We will continue to spread the word on Xinomavro to wine lovers all over the world!

4. What are your biggest fears and hopes for 2011?

2011 is a very challenging year for Greece, the news is dreadful and the market analysts sound gloomy. Still, I believe that 2011 will be a pivotal year for exports. I have a feeling that something is happening with Greek wine in the export markets, and Xinomavro and Assyrtiko are leading the way.

3. Do you export part of your production? How do you promote your wines?

Our aim is to carry out the entire production by ourselves. The wine production is a family business. We cultivate 2.1 ha of land with a target production of 12-15,000 bottles annually. In order to achieve the desired high quality we must concentrate on a small quantity production that also requires constant improvement effort. Therefore we export only small amounts, mainly to Germany, Cyprus and from this year on also to the United States.

In regards to the promotion of our products, we believe very much in web marketing and have created a blog to support this effort. We are also currently working on another website that will contain a lot of information about the Xinomavro variety, its wines, its history and its cultivation.

Our aim is to sell our wines directly from our winery to the end consumer. For us, this is the purpose of a winery open to the public: It’s about selling directly to customers, getting acquainted with them, communicating and giving information on the different conditions that make each year special. When we decided to open a winery, one of our aspirations was to have a good time with it, to meet people interested in wine, to create wine connoisseurs and interact with people sharing our wavelength.

We organize many wine-related events throughout the year. We create seasonal themes and connect them to the prevalent stages of the vine growing cycle (pruning, trimming, harvest etc.). We also show local food products (cherries, apples, chestnuts and others). Our communication channel with our old and new friends is the Argatia website and the blog.

4. What are your biggest fears and hopes for 2011?

We hope that 2011 will be as good to us as 2010 was. We are determined to do more towards increasing the number of visitors to our winery in order to master the upcoming challenges.

We believe that tourism and wineries open to the public must become more closely related.  The “Roads of Wine” should more actively create and sell such tourist packages. Greece will continue to be a popular tourist destination, maybe even more so in the times to come. We need to take advantage of this and create the appropriate conditions for tourists to discover true Greek wine.

Greek wine can certainly benefit from exports, but the selfish attitude of many Greek producers is a real problem: We all agree that we can succeed only by working together. However everyone believes that they are the only ones co-operating, and the others are not. We spend too much time on trying to exclude parties we don’t deem suitable, and in the end we lose focus.

I hope that the wine sector’s strategy, which is based on the promotion of local varieties, will bear fruit and not be undermined by the participating producers. For example, it is unacceptable for a group of Greek producers to complain because it was not their wine or their olive oil that was promoted by the Greek Prime Minister. The important thing is that Greek wine and Greek olive oil was promoted. Only if we all believe in this can we have a chance to succeed.

Haroula has an in-depth knowledge of the Xinomavro grape variety, and has participated in many important research projects. I recommend you take a look at her very impressive CV here.

1. When did you start making wine?

Before we started our own winery, Panagiotis and I were already involved in the wine industry for more than 10 years. I started my career as an agronomist in the first interprofessional organization of Greece, the Interprofessional Association of QWPSR Wines “Naoussa”. This was a long time before the creation of the National Interprofessional Organization of Wine and Vine, where Panagiotis was the Director.

After I completed my postgraduate studies in France, I worked for Vitro Hellas as a researcher on vine-related topics, with focus on the clonal selection of Greek varieties. This research eventually led to the writing of my book “Wine Producing Grape Varieties of the Greek Vineyards”. In 2006 I commenced providing freelance consulting services in the wine sector. Panagiotis was director of the Wine Roads of Northern Greece program until 2008 and is now Director of Argatia.

We planted our first Xinomavro vineyard in 1999, at a time when this variety was still highly disregarded by all wine journalists, who supposedly were specialists in their field. They believed Xinomavro only produced wines of an outdated character, empty, with no fruit etc.

But I had faith in this variety. I could see its negative traits, but believed that these could be corrected by clonal selection, meaning the cultivation of clones showing the best quality. I also deemed the application of the right agricultural techniques, which would ensure the production of healthy, balanced plants as highly important.

The biggest enemy of Xinomavro is its own vigorous nature. When this is moderated, we can produce wines that range from average to extraordinary quality, depending on the soil or the weather conditions of each year. These wines are never of poor quality, but always show a unique character, because uniqueness is one of the main features of Xinomavro.

This is somewhat how we started.

2. From your viewpoint, what makes the Xinomavro variety special?

The fickle character of Xinomavro is a challenge for the winemaker to tame. The wine has the capacity to age for many years and develops a complex character and unique aromas over the years. It is aggressive in its youth, but softens beautifully with maturity. It is a variety that leaves its mark, like people with an intense personality do.

Xinomavro vintages vary and lead to wines with different characteristics. Use this guide for those vintages that are currently available in the market, or have yet to be released.

2003 ***

2003 was relatively dry and cool until mid-summer. The application of correct plant protection methods contributed to the production of healthy grapes and permitted a late harvest. The grapes were healthy and ripe, and gave particularly aromatic wines.

2004 ****

2004 saw a delay of the flowering period, due to a high precipitation rate, fairly low temperatures, and unstable sunshine levels. August and September were marked by modest temperatures, low rainfall levels and increased levels of sunshine. The harvested grapes had an unusually high concentration of phenolic compounds and a good aromatic intensity.

2005 ****

2005 was a very good year, marked by overall cool weather conditions. The weather remained fairly dry until June. This was followed by a period of below average temperatures coupled with significant rainfalls. September was a hot and dry month, perfect for the ripening of the grapes.

2006 ***

2006 was a difficult and unusual year in the Naoussa region. Cold and wet conditions in spring delayed the bud break and blooming. Heavy rainfalls in the beginning of summer caused the overgrowth of shoots. July and August saw other extremes, as a prolonged heat wave led to temperatures staying above 32oC/90oF for 50 out of 60 days, with highs of 40oC/104oF. These conditions restrained the vine growth, and a prolonged ripening process of the grapes took place. Heavy rains in September did not have a negative impact. The intense colored grapes showed a good aromatic potential.

2007 *****

2007 started out with particular hot months. Reduced rainfall caused early bud break. Hot temperatures and rain in April led to a rapid growth rate. In July, temperatures climbed to more than 40oC/104oF, causing early stress on the vines. The prolonged hot weather conditions until the end of August resulted in the dehydration of the grapes. The ripening conditions in September were perfect. The grapes showed a healthy balance between sugar and acidity levels, good phenolic ripeness, and also ripe pips. The resulting wines are deep colored, with intense and complex aromatic character, well structured tannins, and potential for long-term ageing. Overall this was a great vintage for Xinomavro.

2008 ****

2008 was a difficult and unpredictable vintage. The year began with relatively low water reserves due to the exceptionally dry season in 2007. A normal growing cycle took place until July. August was a particular dry month, without any rain at all, which is uncommon for the area of Naoussa. The ripening of the grapes took place in record time and veraison was completed in 36 days. One of the problems encountered was that the sugar content in the grapes was raised at a much faster pace than the phenolic ripeness. The harvest started on September 10th, about 2 weeks earlier than usual, making this one of the earliest in recent history. The 2008 vintage seems to be similar to 2005, certainly much better than 2006, likely not quite as good as 2007.

2009 ****

2009 gave respite to the water shortages encountered in the two consecutive prior years of extremely hot and dry conditions. The atmospheric humidity during the growing season was the highest in the last thirty years. Disease controls had to be implemented because the lower summer temperatures resulted in the outbreak of downy mildew. The ripening period was slow and late, allowing for a continuous berry enlargement. The grapes had low acidity levels, but a satisfactory phenolic profile. The harvest took place in mid-October. In this rather difficult year a meticulous selection process, grape by grape, was very important. Despite the challenges, the wines show intense and fine aromas and a charming harmony.

2010 ***

2010 started out with the best of omens. Beneficial rains in spring were followed by hot summer days. Unfortunately, abrupt changes in temperature became one of the major challenges from this point onwards. The defense mechanisms of the vines were activated. This caused the increased production of phenolic compounds in the skins of the grapes. At the same time, the sugar production process was delayed. The bitterness in the skins of the grapes only started to fade away towards the end of September. Part of the harvest in October took place under rainy conditions. Although the difficult conditions would indicate a moderate vintage in terms of quality, at this stage the wines show surprisingly promising. They exhibit a lively color, are fairly low in alcohol with an intense fruit character and soft tannins.

1994 *****
1994 was a particularly hot and dry year. High temperatures during August were followed by a heavy drought in September, which led to a great deal of stress on the vines and finally to the over-ripening of the grapes. The wines are considered to be typical of the variety, with intense, distinct aromas of tomato, dried fig, tobacco and leather on the nose, a full mouth-feel and a long aftertaste.

1995 ****
1995 saw increased rainfall until the time of the harvest. The grapes became infected by diseases, such as botrytis and rot. The harvest was also delayed in comparison to the previous years. The average temperatures during June and July were high. In contrast, during August and September, the most crucial period for the ripening of the grapes, average temperatures were low. The 1995 harvest varied in quality and revealed those vineyards with the best quality potential. The quantity of the harvest was low.

1996 ***
1996 saw low rainfalls at the beginning of the growing season. These became more intense by the end of summer. During August and September there were large fluctuations in mean temperature and sunshine. The heavy rainfalls also affected the quality of the grapes. The ripening of the raw material did not follow its normal course, giving uneven results in terms of quality.

1997 ****
1997 saw high temperatures, increased hours of sunshine and intense rainfall during the growing season. September was a relatively dry period, resulting in a harvest of healthy and ripe grapes. Alcohol levels were high, a feature that opened a whole new page in the chapter of selective harvesting and viticultural methods used. The wines have rich, mainly secondary aromas, a good body weight, a long aftertaste and flavors that are typical of the variety.

1998 **
1998 is considered to be a moderate year, marked by difficulties in the ripening of the grapes throughout the whole Naoussa area. The growing season started with an increase in rainfall during February and May. During mid-July until the end of August, temperatures were high during day and night. Water reserves in the soil were already low because of reduced winter rainfalls. The high temperatures during the ripening period of the grapes shocked the vines. Their photosynthetic activity was reduced and led to a 10-day delay in the ripening of the grapes. Towards the end of August heavy rain returned, which led to the occurrence of scattered botrytis problems. Rainfalls continued in September, making this a challenging year. Growers that implemented plant protection measures and cut yields (as low as 1.5 kg per vine) were able to harvest healthy grapes with a high sugar index and good concentration of phenolic compounds. This led in turn to the production of typical and good Xinomavro wines.

1999 ***
1999 was an overall good year. Due to favourable weather conditions during March and April, germination occurred rather early. The flowering of the vines in May took place under normal conditions and favorable temperatures. But during summer, high temperatures were registered, rising up to 400C/1040F in August. Even at night-time there was no noticeable cooling effect, and the vines went into shock. The harvest was delayed by 15 days despite the fact that this was the rainiest August in 8 years. The health and ripeness of the grapes was satisfactory, the yields quite low, often not exceeding 1.7 kg/vine.

2000 *****
2000 was the year of all years! There were generally dry weather conditions during the whole cultivation period. In spring temperatures were slightly lower in comparison to 1999 and the germination occurred a little later. The flowering of the vines during the month of May took place under normal conditions and favorable temperatures. The summer period started with high temperatures up to 380C/1000F. There was no cooling effect during night-time, causing a shock to the vines. As a result, the shoots stopped growing at a very early stage and the plants started to “work” on the ripening of the grapes. The ongoing draught conditions led to less threat from the various enemies and diseases of the vine. In order to prevent further shock to the plants due to the high temperatures, many winemakers applied one or two careful irrigations in July. August was a hot month, but without any extreme temperatures. A dry September led to a continuation of the normal ripening of the Xinomavro grapes. This gave healthy, small berry sized grapes that were rich in phenolic compounds, with high sugar levels.

2001 ***
2001 was a relatively hot and wet year until the start of August. July rains prevented the stress of the plants, while hot temperatures and lack of rainfalls during August and September led to the good ripening of the Xinomavro grapes. The resulting wines are high in alcohol, with good acidity and a fair quantity of phenolic compounds.

2002
2002 was a particularly rainy year, characterized by high levels of humidity, which led to the development of botrytis and rot. Increased rainfall during the ripening period, in combination with the relatively low temperatures during the same time, led to only moderately ripe Xinomavro grapes. Some estates decided not to produce Naoussa wines at all, because of the poor quality.

I have kept the image of my uncle, Kostakis Nitsiotas, on my mind. I used to watch him when I was young, working on the wines and tasting the content of a vaeni, as we used to call the large oak barrels. Back then, we did not use small containers, but 2, 3 and 5-ton barrels. The idea of ageing the wine in large barrels belongs to another time. What we are working on now is not only the age and the quality of the oak, but also the size of the barrel.

At every tasting he would say “we should leave this for later, it’s still young”, or “this one is ready now”. I remember that all of his comments were about whether the wine was mature enough or not. Years later, when I had all the necessary scientific knowledge, I tried to interpret my uncle’s behavior based on scientific evidence. Estimating the degree of maturity and the various ageing times can open new horizons about the life cycle of a wine.

A young wine can be highly reminiscent of the vines, and of the flavors and the aromas of the grapes. It brings to mind the morning dew, the countryside, the breeze of the mountain or of the sea, happy voices, and the beauty of youth.

Later on, the wine gains beautiful wrinkles and gives flavors and aromas reminding of dark vaults, slow procedures, treated leather and soft fabric, sunset light, or talking about memories and not about expectations. These are the qualities of the old vintages. We try to make old vintages a part of our life. This is what our vines ask for, and this is what the maturity of our people foster.

This beautiful account is from Yiannis Boutaris, one of the most influential figures in the Greek wine world (and currently also the mayor of Greece’s second largest city, Thessaloniki).

Vintages do matter in Greece. While the overall climate is typically Mediterranean, the remarkable topography guarantees plenty of deviations from this norm. Macedonia, where nearly all of the countries Xinomavro vines grow (dominated in acreage by Naoussa), exhibits much cooler climate conditions than many other Greek wine producing regions.

In Naoussa, the harvest of Xinomavro often begins towards the end of September, and its completion typically takes 3 weeks. October is very prone to heavy rainfall, which can be problematic.

The Kir Yianni Estate has kept records of vintage conditions and quality assessments of the resulting wines in the Naoussa region since 1994. I am happy to announce that all of these have now been translated into English for the first time ever as part of the Xinomavro project. In order to fairly represent the region rather than the particular estate, I have further edited the material. This valuable information will be published shortly.

Do you export part of your production? How do you promote your wines?

Exports currently represent more than 80% of our sales. We do what all recognised and acknowledged wineries do: we promote and practice reliability, quality, and authenticity. We have a stable set of customers that appreciate the genuineness in our work. We seek close ties to our clients by offering tastings and our hospitality, and by upholding extensive exchange of views and thoughts on our wines.

In our export markets we have tried to understand the local culture in order to pair our wine with the local cuisine. We participate in wine exhibitions all over the world and constantly convey our philosophy of our integrity, which makes clients trust in our quality and authenticity in both the good and the difficult harvest years.

What are your biggest fears and hopes for 2011?

As far as my business is concerned, I do not have fears. The difficulties in the current period are related to production and sales. These are two areas where we have continuously worked hard on and can therefore today be confident. The decisions we made in the past including the decision about our grape variety now secure our sales. Our values have been proven and have won the trust of the market.

We have never compromised our work nor betrayed our partnerships and we have never taken advantage of consumers by pretending to make fashionable wines, or by claiming to do something new for the first time in Greece.

I have many hopes: I hope for more appreciation of quality Greek wines, both in the local and the foreign markets. I hope that the Xinomavro wines from the region of Naoussa will gain more recognition world-wide. This would be a real motivation for more people to become involved in the cultivation and production of Xinomavro. I hope for markets with better educated consumers, who do not see wine as a fashion item. I hope that that we get rid of all those who are harmful to our wine sector (one could write a book about those…).

And finally, I hope that we will get to see the emergence of a great Xinomavro wine from a region outside Naoussa, which will get its credit and acknowledgment purely based on the grape variety and not because of marketing efforts that too often take advantage of the ignorance of the Greek consumer and the limited experience of the foreign consumer.

Part 1 can be found here.