Greek wine exports to the US are on the rise and the word about their quality and uniqueness seems to be increasing in tandem. Just last week Eric Asimov published a thoughtful and striking article about New Greek red wines from indigenous grapes that represent “a new wave of Greek wines now available in the United States.”

In stark contrast to the US, there a few signs of a built up of similar interest taking place in Europe. Greek wines have experienced an extremely low penetration rate in the UK market. There have been some promising developments over the last 12 months or so, but these are infant steps. Germany has traditionally been the most important market for Greek wine exports, yet little fresh progress has been made. Sales have only just stabilized after years of decline, and literally no exciting new winery or even new grape variety has been able to break through.

Very little is reported about Greek wines in both countries. The written word is eerily absent, even more so in Germany than in the UK. Given that many more wines from Greece are available in Germany compared to the UK, this begs further investigation.

There are some marked differences between the three markets that might lead to insight as to why Greek wines fare so differently at this point in time. I will summarize them below, keeping in mind that this is no scientifically proven data, but rather my personal observations:

Wine hub: Both the US (New York, San Francisco) and the UK (London) have cities that form the centre for sales and wine related activities. It is here where wine trends are shaped. Competition from other countries is intense, but a meaningful breakthrough will result in success. No such hub exists in Germany, where eighty cities have populations of more than 100000, and only four of them break the one million mark. The cities are spread across the country and vary widely in terms of wine consumption. There are thousands of wine merchants and only a modest number of large players.

Influencers: The US has a high number of influencers, coming from different backgrounds. Wine critics, wine writers (print and online), Sommeliers, even some importers belong to this group. Some of them are particularly influential with the younger generation who have become the strongest growth category for wine consumption. It is no accident that the mostly young Sommeliers are called the rock stars of wine, nor is it that some of the emerging wine writers are only a few years above the legal drinking age.

There are a number of influencers in the UK, but this group is perhaps not quite as versatile as in the US. They are typically respected wine personalities who might as a whole not be quite as accessible when compared to some of their US counterparts. The UK wine market is dominated by supermarkets, whose customers are likely less easily targeted by the influencers. However, the second most important force in the UK wine trade are the wine merchants; and it would be no surprise to me that the influencers do play a key role here.

In Germany, there are only a limited number of wine critics/journalists who might be able to exert some influence. The role of the Sommelier is by far not as evolved as in the US. Given the importance of Germany as a wine consuming and importing country, the size of the active wine community is surprisingly small. The German wine market is fragmented and it will be interesting to see if and what role the Internet might possibly play to bring along changes.

In general, I feel that the influencers in the US are genuinely inquisitive about new emerging trends, whereas in Europe there seems to be more reservation.

Consumer: The US wine consumers, at least the younger ones who reside in one of the wine hubs, are keen on expanding their palate, they are open-minded and love to explore. Tyler Colman aka Dr Vino, one of the leading US wine bloggers, recently wrote an insightful article for The World of Fine Wine, Issue 34, titled “When local becomes global”, where he highlighted the flip side of globalization. He states: “…younger drinkers tend to be more experimental… (They) will try anything once. The Wine Market Council survey had younger respondents praising the joy of discovery.”

European palates also start opening up towards new discoveries, yet this process seems to be lagging behind. So far, I believe only in the US will you find consumers complaining when they can’t get random Assyrtiko or Gruner Veltliner. But Tyler Colman is right when he points out that “The tectonic plates of the wine world have shifted…” See also this post by a 20-something wine geek, which shows how the younger generation approaches wine in the US.

Restaurants and wine bars: When considering Greek cuisine, the US has a huge advantage over Europe. Greek restaurants in the major cities are high class and up market, being perceived as Mediterranean food havens. The impressive wine lists are dominated by, and in some cases limited to Greek wine.

The opposite is true in Europe. Greek restaurants are far too often anglicised or germanised, thereby losing their authenticity, offering cheaply priced, uninspiring food. The wine lists consist mainly of cheap, mass produced wine that match the quality of the food. Those restaurants that do not fit into this category should be actively supported in order to raise awareness.

International (non Greek) restaurants in the US are increasingly turning towards food friendly Greek wines, while this is still the exception in the UK and Germany.

Wine bars in the major American cities are trendy, hip, and crowded by young customers who seek out wines that are off the beaten track. By the glass pours often reflect this.

In London, wine bars are still being perceived as a part of the “old” city/finance culture, where bankers go after work. This is the feedback I received when asking some younger wine consumers in the UK. Looking at Jancis Robinson’s recent listing of some favourite wine bars on her purple pages, the following quote speaks volumes: “Our definition of a wine bar is that it has a decent wine selection and that you are allowed to order no more than a glass of wine, i.e. you are not forced to order food as well.”

As for Germany, there are a few serious wine bars located mainly in Berlin, but this is an emerging niche.

Old baggage: By this I simply mean the overall quality of the imported wines that consumers have been exposed to in the past. I think it is fair to say that Germany has seen dull quality for many years. Not only, but mainly. It requires more effort to change the image of Greek wine in this country. The US has had a larger share of good quality wine, and it is easier to build on this momentum. In the UK, some exciting wines are also now making an appearance. Given how little Greek wine has been imported in the past, the notion of baggage does not really apply.

Promotional and educational activities: Over the last few years, the focus from the Greek wine industry and the official bodies has been heavily on the US market. Very few activities have taken place in the UK or in Germany.

All of these factors feed on one another in a continuous manner. Some are static, others keep evolving. Some can be influenced directly – promotional and educational activities would be an obvious example. Others need a much more concentrated effort. Looking at the above observations, it becomes more obvious why Greek wines are making headway in the US right now: They are extremely well positioned given the prevailing circumstances. The UK market is less ready, but might well surprise on the upside if the right efforts are made (UK wine merchants, I’d love to hear from you Greek wineries often cite Germany as the market with the highest untapped potential. The predominant circumstances do not support these expectations, and might help to explain why this potential has not yet been unleashed.

Some indigenous Greek grape varieties like Assyrtiko and Xinomavro are prime examples of this development. It is fascinating and highly educational to taste older vintages of these wines, one begins to understand just how dramatic such an evolution can be. But even if we get the rare chance to do so, we simply encounter the wine at some singular point in time.

I want to take you on a journey, although I have to warn you, it will be a long one. I plan on buying up to five selected Greek wines to cellar and then reporting quarterly on their evolution over the course of a decade. I hope this will in time turn into something similar to a flip book, with a series of impressions that vary gradually from one occasion to the next, telling a story.

I am not sure if something similar has been attempted, but as far as I know certainly not for Greek wine. I hope to be gaining a much more fundamental understanding on how time affects the character of a wine.

I asked for feedback on twitter concerning this idea, and was surprised about the number of positive responses. A dear friend and wine professional, whom I respect a lot, consequently emailed me, and her judgement persuaded me to go ahead with this project: “My interest in your proposition comes from the idea of advancing wine education in general, which Greek wine, specifically native varieties, needs. There’s need, interest, and value.”

The idea and execution for the accompanying video above comes from the super creative Greek/German team of Ideologio, who carried it out in less than 24 hours. Thank you, Sarah and Spyro!

For the Greek red wines, quantities are dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon, Agiorgitiko, Merlot, Syrah and Xinomavro. Xinomavro is slowly but surely being recognised as Greece’s most distinguished red variety, and deservedly so.

What captures my attention is the potential of a fair number of indigenous red varieties that are not widely known (yet).

Avgustiatis: Grown in the Western Peloponnese and on some islands. Red fruits, plum and Mediterranean herbs. Has a velvety structure with fine tannins, expressive.

Black of Kalavryta: Limited to Aegiala and Kalavryta in the northern Peloponnese. This can rival fine Pinot Noir.

Koniaros: Limited to Serres in Northern Greece. It yields a muscular, full bodied red with firm tannins.

Liatiko: Its home is in Crete, best known for the production of sweet wines. Dry wines can be stunningly complex, with finesse and balance that capture the senses.

Limniona: Originated in Thessaly. The wine is silky, concentrated, with a lot of finesse. This variety is well on its way to become sought after. It is serious, has the ability to please crowds, and is well priced.

Mavrotragano: From Santorini, the wines are complex, full bodied, masculine and tannic.

Mouchtaros: Rare variety grown in Central Greece. Stewed prunes, blueberries, sweet spices. A medium bodied wine with silky tannins and explosive fruit, quite harmonious.

Vertzami: Grown on the Ionian Islands (mainly Lefkada), also Peloponnese, Central Greece and Epirus. Cassis, black berries and truffles. Bold and rich, with gentle tannins, breathtaking harmony.

Vlahiko: Cultivated in the high altitude, cool climate zones of Epirus. The wine has moderately low alcohol, fine tannins, and a high acidity, very elegant in style, the opposite to heavy and rich.

While I appreciate that all of the above grape varieties are produced by only a handful of growers (and in some cases, only a single one), they are a true showcase of the exiting diversity my adopted home country is bringing to the table. These varieties are a Sommelier’s dream. It would be a great initiative to have them included in a future trade/media event for Greek wines.

Please watch the video above, this variety can rival fine Pinot Noir from Burgundy.

Fact File Black of Kalavryta (Mavro Kalavrytino)

Area grown: In the mountainous slopes of Aegialia and Kalavryta , part of the region of Achaia (northwestern Peloponnese).

Vines/Grapes: There are three different varieties from the Mavra Kalavrytina family permitted for planting in Achaia:

1.    The Mavro Kalavrytino
2.    The Psilomavro Kalavrytino (psilo means thin, the grapes are small)
3.    The Hontomavro Kalavrytino (hontro means fat, the grapes are large)

The grapes have a thin skin with a low concentration of anthocyanins, but a good concentration of tannins and high acidity. They are sensitive to botrytis; in addition the variety has a very late maturation cycle. Harvest times depend on the altitude the vines are growing: At around 400 metres (1300 feet) matured grapes can be picked during the third week of September. At high altitude levels of 800 metres (2600 feet), the harvest takes place between 7th on 25th October.

Nose/bouquet: Very distinctive aromas of strawberries coupled with unmistakeable earthiness. Gentle, light to medium bodied, soft and integrated tannins, very good acidity with a finish that keeps lingering on. Class and finesse.

I plan on using my “Greek winemakers” board on Pinterest (overview of my pinboards). Wikipedia describes Pinterest as a pinboard-style social photo sharing website that allows users to create and manage theme-based image collections such as events, interests, hobbies and more. Users can browse other pinboards for inspiration, ‘re-pin’ images to their own collections and or ‘like’ photos. Pinterest’s mission is to “connect everyone in the world through the ‘things’ they find interesting” via a global platform of inspiration and idea sharing. It is also one of the fastest growing social services in the world and offers a great opportunity to educate others and to share a passion.

I cannot do this without you. If you wish to take part, please email me (mstolz @ elloinos.com) a picture and a short description of the story it tells. I will include a link to your website when pinning (posting). It does not involve a lot of work from you, just keep it interesting. I am NOT looking for a picture of your winery or your wines, instead, tell us something about you! Please help spreading the word by sharing this post with your winemaker friends.

Let us all be creative, I can’t wait to share a pinboard through your eyes.

During Oinorama 2012, the biggest wine trade fair in Greece, WSPC and I were invited to host a series of seminars for exhibitors and guests, featuring a variety of topics. All seminars were sold out and a number of people already asked to repeat these tastings. I personally presented two of those: one for “natural wines” in Greece, which deserves a different post, and one on “inter-national blends”.

The idea behind the second seminar was this: we selected three pairs of Greek wines. The first pair was a Vidiano 2011 from the Douloufakis winery in Crete and a Sauvignon Blanc 2011 from Avantis Estate in Evia. The second pair consisted of a Santorini Assyrtiko 2011 from Domaine Sigalas and a Malagousia 2010 from Domaine Gerovassiliou in Macedonia, while the last pair was totally Macedonian: Xinomavro Old Vines Amintaio 2007 from Alpha Estate and Tempranillo 2007 from Pavlidis Estate.

Each pair of wines was presented to the participants in five variations: Two of these were the “original, pure” wines, while the other three were 75/25, 50/50 and 25/75 blends of the two varietals that made up each pair. The tasting order within each pair was different and all wines, even the pure ones, were decanted.

Participants tasted all five wines within each flight and asked to pick their least favourite wine. After voting, the wine with the most votes was eliminated and people re-tasted the four remaining wines. This was repeated until one wine was left. The winners were the 75/25 Vidiano/Sauvignon Blanc, the 75/25 Malagousia/Santorini and the 50/50 Xinomavro/Tempranillo. It is interesting to note that all “winners” were blends and the “pure” wines were ranked either third, fourth or fifth.

In the closing remarks, I asked participants whether they would be happy to eat every day in a restaurant where all foods were served raw. Most said no. Would they be happy to drink straight spirits as well as cocktails prepared from skilful mixologists? All answered yes. There are several alcoholic drinks that are masterpieces in their own right, but we do not blink an eye when bar tenders use them as ingredients in their recipes. Then, why not wine?

Wine consumers are traditionally obsessed with “purism”, that might seem extremely conservative to outsiders. Would you be willing to taste a “house pour”, carefully prepared by a skilled sommelier? Water blends have been around for a couple of decades now. Producers have been doing that for quite a long time, (just look on Australian cross-regional blending or the old Hermitagé Bordeaux discussion) but what about giving power to the other end of the distribution channel?

How many of us are ready to hear a Sommelier asking: “here is our wine list but may I suggest that you try one of my five trademark blends? For the dish you selected I highly recommend Red Blend No. 3, an elegant wine based on Volnay 1990 from Lafarge, a good portion of Sassicaia 1985 and a top note of Grange 1977″?

In general, the quality of the wines displayed indicates strongly that the “Greek wine revolution” continuous to gather steam. There were a number of gems to be found that are very exciting indeed. I also believe that the small wineries will play an increasingly important role in the years to come, a number of them craft wines that hit a sweet spot in terms of quality/price ratio and have the potential to appeal to the export markets.

Malagousia has become very trendy indeed and many wineries from all over the country have embraced this variety. The best samples are stunning wines that will make headway.

There were a number of winemakers who did not exhibit at Oenorama, but made the effort to visit the fair. Apart from networking purposes, their mission was to taste as many wines as possible. They are curious and open minded, keeping the finger on the pulse of any developments.

My final observation is about an extremely positive evolution, in my personal opinion: I had the chance to sit down with sister team Marina and Christina Boutari. They are pushing the family business into the modern age. A new range of entry level wines has been launched that use a hip branding strategy, storytelling will be built around them. A new Facebook page supports the effort, it is currently only available in Greek, but other languages will be added. The Greek website also accommodates the new branding. Take a look at the photographs below, daring and well executed, do you agree?

ΣΗΜΕΙΟ ΣΤΙΞΗΣ means “punctuation mark” (; = ?), this is simply followed by the colour of the wine (white, rosé, or red) and the Boutari logo. As a twist, all the three wines are blends, but the grape varieties are not mentioned anywhere on the label. The intrinsic message is that the enjoyment factor is all that counts.

There is also a new line of semi-sweet wines presented in 187 ml bottles, aimed for the younger crowds as an alternative to cocktails. Think bars, cafes, or even nightclubs at the beach in summertime Greece. The pink bottle has a bold design; the Romeo and Juliet range is offered under the Cambas brand.

Avaton is also the name of a red wine from Domaine Gerovassiliou that I have long thought of being quintessential Greek. It is a blend of three indigenous varieties that are less well known: Limnio, Mavroudi and Mavrotragano.

The Avaton was one of the first Greek wines that I tasted when I moved to Greece eight years ago. I still remember the first time I sipped it: The wine captivated all my senses – combining familiarity (quality) with curiosity (aroma and palate). It was a defining moment that started my passion for Greek wine.

The Avaton is fairly well distributed in the export markets, including Germany, the UK and the U.S. The current vintage is the 2007. The wine has forthcoming aromas of black forest fruit, dark and broody, with a distinct earthiness. On the palate, it is dense and rich, without being too heavy, ripe fruit and dark chocolate, noticeable yet integrated tannins, an almost elegant spiciness, a solid mid-palate and a very strong finish. This blend from ancient Greek varieties is executed in a modern style. Delicious to drink now, but it can certainly be laid down to be enjoyed in the years to come.

The only drawback might be its pricing, especially in the U.S. market – at nearly 50 USD plus tax it is by no means a bargain. In Europe, the average price is around 20€. But the wine will not disappoint, and given its uniqueness you might as well seek this out.

I took the photo yesterday morning at a large branch of AB Vasilopoulos, Greece’s largest supermarket chain. I remember well when the Robola from the Gentilini winery was first listed in this chain about a year ago at around 11 Euros. Look carefully at the price now – it includes 23% VAT. We are entering a very dangerous territory: I very much doubt that the winery has ever sold a single bottle of the Robola 2009 at these low prices in the Greek marketplace.

The owner of Gentilini told me that they have sadly no control over AB Vasilopoulos’ pricing. The winery did not sell directly to them; the agreement was made by Gentilini’s exclusive distribution network. The contract with the distributor was severed before the 2010 vintage was sold to them. It is clearly against Gentilini’s interest to see their wine being offered at below cost. If times were not so difficult, they would buy back the wines themselves. Unfortunately this is not an option and all they can do is to wait until the stock has been depleted.

It is a sad reality that the Greek wineries are facing multiple problems in the local market. Cash flows have dried up long ago, distributors have collapsed, and demand for bottled wine above 5 Euros has imploded. One or two years ago, a winery might have been proud to see their wine being offered at a powerful supermarket chain. Today, this feeling has turned into sadness.

On the other hand, quite a few of the medium and larger sized wineries are working hard to introduce “economic” wines to the market. It will be very interesting to keep an eye on this development. Recent growth in the export markets also gives cause for optimism.

There are many power shifts taking place within the Greek wine industry right now. The crisis has torn apart many of the existing business models, and it is this dynamic that will bring real change. Change is what is needed, especially in the current environment.

Can these principles be applied to bring along change for a whole country, Greece in particular? It might seem impossible at first glance, maybe even short sighted, but there is no doubt in my mind that they will play an integral part of any such endeavour.

The first exposure I had with Peter Economides’ work was in November last year when I watched this speech about rebranding Greece on youtube (only the first minute is in Greek). This to me is the essence of captivating storytelling.  I was not surprised about the fact that this business speech went viral in the following days and weeks.

I connected with Peter via twitter and shortly afterwards in real life at a marketing conference he was chairing in Istanbul, Turkey. I would describe him as a passionate visionary. He recently launched a number of campaigns on Facebook, “Greece, it’s time to imagine the future” and “Ginetai Workshop, a place for collaboration” are two examples.

His latest activity is the most visible to date. Peter designed the full page advertisement called “Give Greece a Chance” which ran in a wide range of international newspapers over the weekend (Financial Times, The Wall Street Journal, International Herald Tribune, Le Monde, Le Figaro, Les Echos, Le Parisien, Bild Deutschland, Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung, Süddeutsche Zeitung, Tagesspiegel, Die Welt, De Telegraaf, NRC, Handelsblad, NRP, AD, Le Soir). Importantly, the campaign is backed by more than 20 leading Greek companies, including Aegean Airlines, Athens Airport, Cosmote, Eurobank, OTE, Piraeus Bank and others. This embodies Peter’s vision, as he has called for a common brand narrative. In his view, all Greeks need to tell the same story. In this case, a group of businesses sent out one common message.

The campaign is accompanied by a website “Greece is changing“, and a Facebook page has been live for less than 100 hours. Nearly 14000 people have liked it already, and nearly 2000 are currently talking about it.

There have been some critical voices regarding Peter’s branding strategy, but this is to be expected. If voiced in a constructive way, they can well be beneficial. Personally, I have a lot of respect for anyone who is able to execute his or her vision the way Peter has.

Give Greece a chance – this addresses each one of us, not just foreigners.