Gaia Wines is a remarkable wine estate. They have succeeded in becoming one of the true icons in not just one, but two of the finest wine regions in Greece: Nemea in the Peloponnese is home to the Agiorgitiko grape, and the island of Santorini is famous for its Assyrtiko wines.

Last week I had the chance to attend a wine tasting featuring their wines. The event was hosted by the Winebank Pavlidis and took place in the south of Athens, by the sea. Thanks go out to Kostas Katsoulieris, who alerted me to attend the tasting. Kostas is an active commentator on this blog, and I was looking forward to finally meet him in real life.

I arrived a little late, as the traffic was really bad, but made it just in time for the first wine to be poured. The first thing that hit me was that the location was packed. I guess that at least 40 people were attending. The owner of Gaia Wines, Yiannis Paraskevopoulos, presented a superb range of his wines. He talked about every wine in great detail, covering the work in the vineyards and the winery, giving very useful information about the vines, soil structure, harvest time, etc.  This was no marketing talk; instead it was one of the most educational conversations I have ever encountered at a wine tasting. There were many questions from the crowd and a high level of engagement. I  reported last year that the wine culture in Greece is changing. By now it becomes more evident than ever that consumers are eager to educate themselves about fine wines, and I have little doubt that this will have a positive and lasting impact on the Greek wine industry.

Santorini wines tasted, all 100% Assyrtiko:

Thalassitis 2009: A great vintage for Santorini – lots of ripe Citrus aromas, this is a serious wine with a lovely kick from the acidity, bone dry with a salty and very long finish.

Wild Ferment 2008: Only the natural wild yeasts are used for the fermentation. Half the wine is matured for 4 months in 80% new oak barrels. Dense and rich aromas of citrus, minerals and pan-fried butter. Full bodied with great level of acidity, very round, its structure reminds me of a great Montrachet. Very long finish. AVIN3193961754611

Thalassitis 2008: Lots of mineral, lemon and butter aromas, full-bodied, extremely dry, this screams for food, one can nearly taste the salt from the sea, very long.

Nemea wines tasted, apart from Gaia S all 100% Agiorgitiko:

Agiorgitiko 2008: Aged in old barrels, the wine has intense cherry aromas, supple and elegant on the palate with soft tannins.

Gaia S 2007: A blend of 70% Agiorgitiko and 30% Syrah, it shows intense spicy cherry aromas, bundled with an earthy character. Meaty on the palate, elegant with a well integrated tannin structure and a very long finish.

Gaia Estate 2006: Aged for 14 months in 60% new barrels. Nose of ripe black cherries and dark chocolate, powerful palate, concentrated dark fruit, smooth and balanced, finishes long.

Gaia Estate 2004: More spicy than the 2006 vintage, morello cherries, vanilla and roasted almonds, very powerful on the palate, tannins are quite evident, no shortage of acidity, full with a very long finish.

Gaia Estate 2000: Some maturity on rim, aromas of cherry jam, tea and roasted almonds. On the palate it is very feminine and soft in style, yet full of life. The tannins are soft and fully integrated, the finish silky. Perfect to drink now, a great example that well made Agiorgitiko has ageing potential.

Anatolikos 2001: A sweet wine from sun dried grapes, aged in 5-year old barrels. Nose of sweet cherries, prunes and honey, almost port-like. It is fairly full-bodied on the palate, yet elegant with an almost rich sweetness.

The icing of the cake for me came in the form of a Gaia Estate Magnum 2004, signed by Yiannis Paraskevopoulos. Every participant of the tasting event wrote his or her name on a piece of paper and a random winner was picked. The stars must have aligned for me that evening, as my name was pulled out. This treasure now has a special place in my wine cellar.

“The Wines of Greece: Santorini and Assyrtiko” is the theme of a comprehensive 15 page report that has just been released by The International Wine Review . They publish bi-monthly reports that are available by subscription only, a six-month online subscription (3 reports) is offered for $ 25.00 and includes access to all previous reports. A total of 19 reports have been published up to date. A future report that will focus on four Greek indigenous varietals – Agiorgitiko, Xinomavro, Moschofilero, and Assyrtiko, is scheduled for 2010.

The report is based on first-hand experience; the publisher visited the island and met with many of the growers. One fact that immediately caught my attention is the high level of due diligence that took place: Sofia Perpera and George Athanis contributed to the report. Sofia Sigala , Iliana Sidiropoulos , and other winemakers from Santorini provided information. Konstantinos Lazarakis MW and Angelos Noulas read and commented on drafts of the report. This clearly shows that the report has been carefully drafted and is a viable source of information.

After a short but solid introduction, the reader is presented with the history of the island. This section might appeal only to those that wish to find out who ruled Santorini during different periods of time, but I learned some interesting facts that I was not yet aware of.

The next part covers the soil, climate and vineyards of the island. This is a must read for everyone who likes to get a better sense of why the wines of Santorini are so unique. Relaying many facts in just more than one page can easily make for an uneasy reading experience, but here, the words just flow. I enjoyed reading this part a lot.

In the following few segments, the input of the “insiders” really shows. The segment on viticulture includes paragraphs on vine pruning, pests and diseases. Details about yields and vine density, and the growers strive to experiment with the cultivation of grapes are well researched. The unique pruning and training systems are explained, and the problem of weeds is pointed out. The most important grape varieties are also discussed in a short and to the point style.

In the winemaking section the typical harvest times for the main varieties are given. Every wine geek will love the detailed description of the fermentation and yeasts. This was actually my favourite part. Different options for oak treatment that the growers are experimenting with are pointed out. The aging potential for Assyrtiko wines is discussed and backed up by personal tasting notes taken at a symposium in Santorini. And of course a section on how Vinsanto is made is not missing.

Next comes a piece on pairing Assyrtiko with food. The Sommelier of the Zaytinya Restaurant in Washington picks a handful of food groups to go with this wine. The choices did not surprise me, as I often enjoy Assyrtiko with similar dishes, but anyone should go along with the recommendations and try the suggested pairings. Two recipes are also included.

A discussion of the future for Santorini and Assyrtiko rounds up the main part of the report and asks the question if tourism and winegrowing can continue to exist side by side.

The last pages of the report introduce the main wineries of the island and include tasting notes and ratings on different wines for each estate. This section is geared towards US subscribers and does list the various importers through which the wines can be purchased in the US.

If you like studying reports that go way beyond scratching the surface of their subject, then this is for you. It is very educational and includes a few real gems of information. It is not meant as a quick read – although the writing style is anything but boring, the sheer amount of information given needs the attention of the reader.

Is it worth taking up a subscription in order to gain access? There is still far too little high quality information available on Greek wines. I put out all my content for free, but my motives are different. The i-winereview publishes top notch content, and I know how many working hours are needed to succeed in doing so. For $ 25.00 you get access to 19 reports from which a lot can be learned. I am sure of one thing: After studying this report on Santorini, the next glass of Assyrtiko will speak to you in a whole new language. You can find an article from me on Santorini here.

Disclaimer: Apart from linking to a free article on their site, I am not affiliated with The International Wine Review in any way, nor do I have any financial interest in regards to their publications. In fact, this review might have well been unfavourable if the report would not have met my own standards.

Part of a series of videos to bring 100 different Greek grape varieties to you.

Fact File Mavrotragano

Area grown: Santorini

History: Eighty years ago, Mavrotragano was commonly grown throughout the island. Traditionally, it was used in the production of sweet wines. Over the following seventy years, these plantings were pulled out little by little to make room for hotel development. In addition, Mavrotragano vineyards were replanted with Assyrtiko, which produced a better revenue-stream for growers. By 2000, it covered less than 2% of Santorinis’ vineyards. The variety was close to extinction. 

Until 1995, no professional winemaker had ever produced a dry wine from Mavrotragano grapes. In this year, Haridimos Hatzidakis decided to experiment with a dry version while working at the Boutari estate. Shortly afterwards he set up his own winery and in 1999 the first ever bottled Mavrotragano from the 1997 vintage was released to the market. Without any knowledge of Hatzidakis’ work, in 1998 Paris Sigalas also produced a dry version of Mavrotragano. He was intrigued by the results. The production accounted to just 400 bottles. Both growers added to their vineyards and planted the variety in 2000. Soon other growers followed suit, and by today the Mavrotragano wines have reached a cult status in Greece. It is without any doubt that the efforts of Hatzidakis and Sigalas have saved this great variety.  

Grapes: Small grapes of bright red to black colour and thick skins. A low yielding variety that matures quickly by the end of August.

Nose/bouquet: Red and black fruits, spices, minerals, rich and gentle tannins. Comparable to Nebbiolo is style.

Santorini is one of the most stunning Greek islands and its wines have captured the hearts of many wine lovers. The terroir is unique and the wines produced have the ability to rival the greatest wines in the world. Often very complex, rich, multi-dimensional and age-worthy, these wines leave hardly anything to be desired. One of the very top producers is the Domaine Sigalas. I feel very fortunate that they have provided me with the following detailed overview of this amazing wine region. Information does not come more authentic then this – straight from the source. Please enjoy…

Viticultural Region
Santorini is part of the island complex of Cyclades, located in the South Aegean. It has a surface area of 73 sq. km and is located at a geographical latitude between 36o 19’ 56’’ and 36o 28’ 40’’ N. and a geographical longitude between 25o 19’ 22’’ and 25o 29’ 13’’ E. The viticultural region of the island has a size of approximately 1,400 hectares, starting at sea level and ascending in terraces up to the caldera, which has a height of 150 to 250 meters from sea level depending on the location.

Soil
The soil is a mixture of volcanic ash and pumice. Throughout the entire length of the island, both small and large rocks composed of magnesium and ferrous iron are encountered, as well as small and large lava deposits, all of which are of volcanic origin. The pumice (consisting of small to very small porous stones) extends from the surface, to considerable depths.

The soil of Santorini is sandy, with layers ranging in thickness upwards of 40 meters, is approximately 3600 years of age, and is not affected by the underlying layers, which consist of semi-crystalline limestones and schists. The extensive amount of small and large rocks composed of magnesium and ferrous iron is what defines the soil characteristics of Santorini. It is these formations that enrich the soil with Calcium, Magnesium, Ferrous Iron, thus increasing the G.E.C. and creating soils, with different water contents, which in the local dialect have names such as: “aspa”, “tsigro”, “fountado” etc.

The organic content in the Santorini soils is at very low levels. The same holds true for the contents of Nitrogen, Phosphorous and most other trace elements. The lack of clay and the extremely high sand content (93-97%) create a hostile environment for the Phylloxera pest. It is this fact, which saved the island vineyards from the Phylloxera epidemic, which was responsible for eradicating swathes of viticultural regions throughout the world in previous centuries, with few exceptions, one of which is the island of Santorini.

History
The viticultural region of Santorini is ancient, with varieties that date back to antiquity. According to Mr. Doumas, professor of Athens University and head of the digs in Akrotiri, archaeological finds located in the excavation of the pre-historic city of the Akrotiri, constitute definite proof of vineyards in Thira (Santorini), from as early as the 17th century BC. This prehistoric viticultural region was destroyed in the huge volcano eruption, around 1620 BC.

The viticultural region was then resurrected on new volcanic soil, as part of the renewed habitation of the island at approximately 1200 BC. One would not be exaggerating in saying that the viticultural region of Santorini is three thousand years old, given that up to the present day, it has seen uninterrupted cultivation, while the vine and the wine have been at the core of the financial, social and cultural life of the island.

The vines are classified as old vines (since they were not destroyed during the phylloxera epidemic), and are over 50 years in age. The rejuvenation of the vineyards employs the same technique from antiquity to the present day, that of “kataboladi”. This is the technique in which in the place of the dead vine, a branch from an adjacent wine is planted in the soil (to an approximate depth of 30 cm).

This new vine, is left attached to the “parent vine” for the first years, and then after 3-5 years, when it has its own roots, is cut off from the parent vine, thus creating a new one. Of course, in order to safely use this rejuvenation technique, the vineyard must consist of old vines, in order to be safe from possible Phylloxera epidemics.

Pruning
The pruning technique is both ancient and unique. It was created taking into account the soil and climate conditions of the regions, as well as the farming implements that where then available. The sandy soil, the fierce winds of spring, the time of year when the vineyard grows and the scorching sun of the summer are the reasons that led to the creation of this peculiar and unique type of pruning employed in the island. Specifically, two types of pruning, similar to the Guyot type of pruning, were created.

One type is called the “giristi”. It is applied in the places that are most exposed to wind, which constitutes the largest part of the vineyard. In this type of pruning, the vine dresser takes 4 to 5 “amolites” (one year old canes with 8-10 fruit buds), and interweaves them into a wreath of old and new vines. The vine, which is pruned in this fashion, resembles a basket made of vine twigs.

The other method of pruning is called “koulouri” or “klada”. This entails the use of 4 to 5 “amolites”. The vinedresser, using exquisite care (so that it does not break), fashions a small hollow circle, which is approximately vertical to the ground level.

Varieties
In the 1980s, 53 varieties were catalogued, both white and red, many of which are ancient.

Assyrtiko
Assyrtiko is the dominant variety of the vineyard. It is found in 90% of the white wine varieties, with white wine varieties constituting 80% of the viticultural region of the island. It is an indigenous variety, grown since antiquity and is in complete harmony with the harsh conditions of the island. It is linked to the Santorini soil with its mineral taste, its pronounced acidity and the firm structure that the wines of this variety have. For quite a few years now, Assyrtiko has been cultivated not only in Santorini but throughout Greece.

Aidani
Aidani is also a white wine variety that is indigenous to the island. It is a floral-scented variety, with relatively low acidity. Traditionally used in Vinsanto, in order to contribute to the scent bouquet of this great and renowned sweet Santorini wine. Today, Aidani, along with the other ancient Aegean variety of Athiri, are used in up to proportions of 25%, in the making of wine with Appellation of Superior Quality “Santorini”, with the rest of the 75% being covered by Assyrtiko.

Mandilaria
Mandilaria is another ancient red variety of the South Aegean. It can be found in Rhodes, Crete, Paros and Santorini. Along with the other red varieties of the island, it covers approximately 20% of the viticultural region. It is a high-tannin variety, rich in colouring substances; it matures with difficulty, most times yielding musts with aggressive and unripe tannins. It is also a variety with a very high acidity. It is exactly due to this high acidity, that traditionally, but even in the present day, it is used to produce the sun dried sweet wine of Santorini. This is an exquisite sweet red wine, which is known for its extremely high acidity, which compliments its rich residual sugar content and its tannin aftertaste.

Mavrotragano
This is a red variety indigenous to the island, which came close to extinction. It is a robust variety, with thick vine twigs, tough wood, large leaves and a small yield. The grapes are small, with reddish to black colour. The bunches of grapes are usually small to medium sized. The skin of the grape is thick, with anthocyanins that break easily; yielding must with vivid colour and many high quality tannins, with a good degree of polymerization.

In the last ten years, as part of the reorganization of the vineyard, our company, as well as other wineries of the island, has planted to the present day (winter of 2008) 8 hectares with this variety, and we feel that our winery is playing a leading role in saving this rare and exceptional indigenous variety of the Santorini viticultural region

The red wine produced from Mavrotragano is a wine rich in mild tannins, with a distinctive and rich perfume, with a full and textured flavour, which leaves a lingering after-taste. From the results yielded so far, it is a variety that can be used in the making of quality wines, with personality and a long extended aging time.

Climate
The climate is best described as Mediterranean, with mild winters and cool summers, due to the strong northerly winds in the summer, with durations of up to a month. The vines are also relieved from the heat from the sea breeze. Average annual rainfalls range up to 350 mm, and the average temperature is 16.5ο C.

At night in summer, during most summer times the humidity created by the sea, especially the caldera sea, due to the high day time temperatures, falls like a gentle rain at the surface of the soil and vine leaves. This ‘‘rain’’ known by the locals as ‘‘pousi’’ (meaning a mist rising from the sea) soothes the vines from the high temperatures during the day. The chill, which descends on the island during the summer night’s -largely as a result of the great temperature differences between day and night-, attributes to the high quality of the wine produced in Santorini.

Viticultural Museum
The unique soil of Santorini which sheltered the vineyards from the phylloxera epidemic, resulted in Santorini being one of the few places in the world where old vines can be located, with the viticultural region being more than 3000 years old, with vines aged at more than fifty years, a unique pruning method as well as individual ancient varieties. All these make the viticultural region of Santorini, a historical viticultural area, and a viticultural museum. This region is one that yields unique wines, of exceptional qualities, which as they age, are living embodiments of the land of Santorini with all its eccentricities, this unique terroir, which is the Santorinian viticultural region.

Mark Squires, who among other countries covers Greece for Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, kindly gave me permission to link two articles he published and that are well worth reading.
Greece’s North: Xinomavro
Santorini: Not just for the panoramas….go for the wine!
Thank you very much Mark!

2008 Aidani-Assyrtico, white – VdP Cyclades, 90% Aidini, 10% Assyrtico 15.5
Medium deep straw colour. Nose of lychees. Very fruity on the palate, explosive and elegant at the same time. Also some minerals and stones. Good length. AVIN5143687376374
2007 Assyrtico, white – Santorini AOC, 100% Assyrtico 16
Pale silver colour. Nose of white fruits and minerals. Very fresh on the palate, fruit ladden, deep. Has a good and long finish. One can almost taste the sunshine the grapes received. AVIN0116191551730
2008 Santorini, white – Santorini AOC, 90% Assyrtico, 5% Athiri, 5% Aidani 16
Light lemon colour. Nose of bananas, lychees and ananas. Pure elegance on the palate. AVIN8968889857288
2007 Santorini Oak, white – Santorini AOC, 100% Assyrtico 16
Pale silver colour. Nose of minerals and fruits with a hint of oak. The barrel treatment adds just the right amount of oak flavour to the palate. Not everdone, it adds complexity to the character. Nice buttery finish. AVIN2965949247764
2007 Santorini Nikteri, white – Santorini AOC, 100% Assyrtico 16.5
Pale lemon colour. The nose has pure fresh white fruits. This has a touch more depth on the palate with very ripe fruit aromas, very elegant in style. AVIN2564088465710
2006 Mavrotragano, red – Experimental wine, 90% Mavrotragano, 10% Mandilaria 18
Very bright and shiny medium deep red cherry colour. Very open nose of cooked and jammy red fruits. Very refined on the palate with extracts of raspberries. Vibrant and elegant, long finish. The tannins are round, this wine will benefit from cellaring. AVIN3775616178845
2001 Vinsanto, sweet white – Santorini AOC, 80% Assyrtico, 20% Aidani 18
Deep caramel coloured. Nose of dried raisins, honey and peaches. The palate shows mouthwatering dried raisin flavours. Lasts long. AVIN5359223905728