What stood out was the sheer diversity of the wines. This was a very true representation of the Naoussa wineries – no cherry picking of the best offerings took place, this was as raw as it gets. Included were many small growers with vineyard holdings of between 4 and 10 hectares, all the way up to the Coop with its 220 members who cultivate 200 hectares. All styles were represented, from the traditional “rustic” approach to the modern way of extracting more fruit and colour while taming the tannins. There were wines that were immensely powerful, yet others that were marked by pure elegance. In addition, it was fascinating to see how the wines start to evolve after a few years. The difference between the newly released 2008’s and the slightly more mature 06 or 07 vintages was remarkable. In this respect the event was highly educational. After the tasting, the wines got there chance to really show what they were made for – to be paired and enjoyed with food. A four course dinner was served, and the wines were now flowing freely. It was quite fascinating to have such an arsenal of Xinomavro wines at hand.

Michael Madrigale, the rising star Sommelier, captured the essence of Xinomavro perfectly in a short speech he gave just before dinner:

“I love Greek wine, I visited there two years ago. I did not get to go to Naoussa, but visited the Peloponnese and Santorini. But I did get to taste a lot of Xinomavro while I was there.

For me, these wines really have something to say. That is the most important part of wine for me. They have been making wine here (in Naoussa)  since the time of Aristotle and Alexander the Great. Yet no one really knows about them, which is amazing. I feel that all the work has already been done. These are thousand years old vine areas. It’s not like a banker who made a ton of money, buying flatland that used to be a desert, irrigating it and putting in clones to get that $9.99 price point on the shelf.

There are more wise traditions and soul and I feel, as someone who buys wine and creates wine lists, provides wine experiences for guests, it is my duty to highlight wines like these. It is in my best interest that they (the winemakers) keep going and keep making wines, keep doing what they are doing. That they don’t bend over in order to do what the market wants, or to change how the market changes. That is why I feel that these wines are special.

I run Bar Boulud and Boulud Sud and will be putting lots of Xinomavros on those wine lists. Because they fit very well with the food here at Bar Boulud, but they fit even better at Boulud Sud, because it’s all Mediterranean food. I compile a very large list of Greek wines. I even reached out to a couple of growers to ask them if they have older vintages. I really want to have a wine list that highlights these wines that is not a Greek restaurant. That’s where I feel you will get the most exposure – in restaurants that are not just Greek. Like I said, it is my duty and I am happy to do that. Thanks you all the growers for making those wines!”

The list of wines that were shown:

VAENI Naoussa 2006

VAENI Damaskinos 2005

Dalamara Paliokalas 2008 (Kostis Dalamara also had the 2005 and 2002 with him)

Chrisohoou Naoussa 2007

Elinos Naoussa 2007

Foundi Naoussa 2006

Kelesidis Merhali 2006

Diamantakou Naoussa 2006

Kastaniotis Naoussa 2008

Melitzanis Naoussa 2008

Tsantali Naoussa Reserve 2006

Boutari Grand Reserve 2004

Kir Yianni Ramnista 2008

Please also read this related post by my dear friend Viviane Bauquet Farre, a great read!

Following are my personal tasting notes:

2007 Terroir 2, 13.5% alcohol: Deep blackberry colour with purple tinges. Quite open aromas of crushed red fruit, slight barnyard action in the background, also honey. Medium bodied with a fistful of tannins. This has good acidity, lots of raspberries and red fruit coming through. The finish is silky and offers good length. 16+ (delivers)

2007 Terroir 1, 13.8% alcohol: Fairly deep black cherry colour with hints of blue. Very different aromas than the Terroir 1, this seems more forthcoming and dark, it has more vegetal aromas, mushrooms and truffles come through. Medium+ bodied with a dense tannin structure and a matching acidity. This is masculine in style, it is particular strong on the mid-palate; the long finish returns the dark fruit. 17+ (excites)

2007 Epilegmeno, 13.7 % alcohol: Lighter coloured than the previous two wines, a medium deep raspberry. The nose is more reserved, but elegant and stylish. It has aromas of crushed berries and hints of flowers, almost delicate. Medium bodied, with soft and integrated tannins, a fairly high acidity. There are lots of raspberry flavours in here, also some dark chocolate. It is well structured and has a good length, and certainly shows the most fruit on the backend. 17+ (refined)

It was quite fascinating to taste these wines, as all came from the successful 2007 vintage, from different plots located in Naoussa. They were all remarkable different in terms of style, which is why I indicated my key term for each wine behind the score. The wines are currently experimental, which means that Boutari has been working on the nuances for a number of years. They will at some point in time decide if and when to release them as a regular bottling. Until then, the wines can be purchased only at the winery, in a three-pack containing one bottle of each. The price before VAT is 7,50€ per bottle, which I find to be stunning value. I sure hope that more than one label will be released. I have few doubts that this quality will improve Boutari’s reputation.

2003, 13% alcohol: Light to medium raspberry colour with orange tinges. Aromas of tomatoes, also barnyard, quite vegetal, red fruits linger right behind. On the palate, the wine is light to medium bodied, with soft tannins and decent acidity. There is some lovely raspberry fruit on the back-end, a very soft wine. 16

2001, 12.3% alcohol: A touch deeper coloured than the 2003, the rim has a little more maturity. This exhibits dark aromas of mushrooms, tealeaves, tomatoes, much more vegetal. Very lively on the palate, the tannins are still very present, mouth-filling with a balanced combination of fruit and vegetal character. The finish is very long – I like this a lot, shows extremely well. 18

For me, the 2001 showed much more complexity and staying power in comparison to the 2003.

1994, 13.5% alcohol: Medium deep red cherry colour with brown tinges. Forthcoming aromas of raspberries and jam mixed with a nice earthiness, quite an elegant nose. The wine immediately impresses on the palate with its extremely concentrated fruit, explosive raspberries. The tannins still have a good kick; the acidity is superb; this wine delivers throughout. The finish is phenomenal, extremely long, and the fruit keeps jumping right back. 19

1993, 13.2% alcohol: Bright medium deep red cherry colour with much less matured rim. More closed on the nose, but with pure and concentrated fruit. The tannins are still present on the palate, there is lively acidity, sweet fruits like stewed prunes; it finishes well. Tough luck that this was served right after the stunning 1994, as it is a lovely wine. 16+

1992, 12.8 % alcohol: Medium raspberry colour, the rim just lightens up. In comparison to the 1993, this is more earthy and vegetal on the nose, also has slightly burned aromas. Light bodied on the palate, with a beautiful integrated tannin structure, high acidity, and concentrated fruit, also a solid finish. 17
It was amazing to taste just how fresh and vibrant these wines were. I think they drink perfect right now, as they bring it all to the table. The 1994 was the star of the night.

1990, 12.3% alcohol: Light raspberry colour with brown tinges. This has quite intense aromas of tomato juice (think Bloody Mary). Light to medium bodied, the vegetal character is there first, the fruit takes hold on the mid palate. The finish is rather short though, the wine seems to disappear right after the mid palate. 14

1987 Grande Reserve, 11.7% alcohol: Light garnet colour with brown tinges. Aromas of herbs, tomato and tealeaves. The wine is very herbaceous on the palate, with soft tannins and good acidity. This actually gains strength after the mid palate, the opposite of the 1990. It is very much alive and finishes well. 16

These two wines might have seen their best days, although the 1987 still shows well. It would be interesting to know how they were 5 years ago.

1974, 12% alcohol: Light garnet colour with an orange rim – but I would have not guessed its age, the colour seems actually less mature than the 1990. This has very soft aromas of plums, tealeaves and roasted peppers, also a distinct earthiness. On the palate, it is medium bodied, elegant and very much alive. Layers of fruit come through, and there is a sweet spot on the finish. It shows a balanced combination of concentrated fruits, tannins and acidity, very impressive.

1969, 12.3 % alcohol: Light garnet colour with a brown rim. It exhibits very earthy aromas with pronounced barnyard elements. On the palate this shows a soft structure; then a huge malt component comes into play, also some red fruit in the background. This is one of the most expressive wines of the night, and I prefer this to the 1974, there is more depth and complexity present. A “rebel at heart” wine!

The last two wines just showed that high quality Xinomavro can age for many decades. They were complex, still showed a remarkable freshness, and were simply stimulating all tasting senses. I refrain from indicating scores, as these wines are clearly in a league of their own. No point system can mirror this. The wines were a treat, period.

Boutari is a huge company and takes a lot of heat from others who criticise them for making and selling “mass-produced” wines without real soul. While I agree that some of their wines should receive an “internal review”, the wines that were presented at this event shows that they are more than capable of crafting wines that can be stunning. In addition, the experimental wines suggest that some stellar quality has yet to enter the marketplace. I feel that Boutari deserves real respect for this.

Annette and I decided to follow our common dream to produce top quality wines from Xinomavro. Five years ago, we settled in the far north of Greece just outside Amyndeo and built a modern, eco-friendly winery. Our son Joris was born just before the foundations of the building were laid. I am the winemaker, Annette works the vineyards.

We chose Amyndeo exclusively for its semi-continental climate, the stunning terroir, and of course because of the local Xinomavro clone that has been called “Popolka” for many centuries, and still is today. North West Macedonia has a winemaking tradition that reaches back more than 3000 years. This claim is supported by recent excavations and archaeological research. We are from Northern Europe, and Xinomavro from Amyndeo is the perfect match to our personalities.

Amyndeo is located next to the lake Vegoritis, at an altitude of 650 metres (2100 feet). It is surrounded by 3 giant mountains. The climate exhibits cool nights and hot days during summer, with plenty of rainfalls and snow during the cold winter. Amyndeo has the coolest climate of all wine producing regions of Greece.

Until recently, the wine business in this region was dominated by the local Coop and the huge winemaking factories like Tsantali and Boutari. All of them bought grapes from the local farmers, who were paid by the weight of the grapes. It is my view that this policy led to a decline in the quality: Many farmers started the excessive use of pesticides and chemical fertilizers, and also applied watering to the vineyards in order to further increase the yields. This resulted in unripe, highly acidic grapes that were unable to yield balanced wines. The other Xinomavro producing regions of Goumenissa and Naoussa have also faced similar problems. The winemaking methods employed (huge tanks, filtration, and pumps) also limit the potential quality of the wine.

We rely on biological and biodynamic farming practises to achieve balance in our vineyards. Our 4.5 ha are planted with Xinomavro vines that are more than 30 years old. In addition, we own a plot of just 0.25 ha with ungrafted, pre-phylloxera Xinomavro vines that are more than 100 years old. From these vines we manage to produce just 250 bottles per year, with yields of only 7.5 hl/ha.

For us, the progress made by some talented winemakers from Naoussa like Thimiopoulos or Haroula Spinthiropoulou from the Argatia winery is very important. At the same time, we want to learn from the way the local people produced wines in the old days. Back then, the wine was fermented in oak, wild yeasts were used, pumps did not exist, no filtration was applied, and extended skin contact took place. We replicate this in our winery, which is a three storey, gravity-flow building. Our respect for the environment is an integral part of the winery design.

One of the most interesting aspects of Xinomavro from Amyndeo is the capability to produce highly aromatic rosé wines, subtle blanc de noirs, remarkable red wines with serious ageing potential, and exceptional sparkling, blanc de noir based wines. The latter can only be achieved by using the method traditionelle. Xinomavro grapes have the correct chemical composition to yield sparkling wines with a tremendous mousse, and everlasting creamy, soft and mouth-filling bubbles. The combination of the natural acidity and the aromatic characteristics of the grapes resemble the famous Epernay blanc de noir wines. This is remarkable but not surprising, as many wine experts compare the still red Xinomavro wines to the classic Pinot Noir wines from Burgundy.

Our dream is to produce world class wines exclusively from Xinomavro in Amyndeo. I believe we are on the right track, but I know that it will take more time and hard work. Until we succeed in our quest, many winemakers will continue to blend Xinomavro with other varieties. I see nothing wrong with this approach. We, the winemakers, should all cooperate and share our knowledge amongst each other. I hope that our son Joris and his friends, who were born at the same time as our Domaine, will make truly iconic Xinomavro wines. This will then close our circle!

Please keep in mind that Naoussa was declared the “City of Wine and Vine” in 1987, the year before the newspaper article was printed. At this time there were numerous events focusing on Xinomavro.

Konstantinos Dalamaras (to be seen in the photo that was taken in 1949):

The past year was the year of wine and vines for Naoussa, and there were numerous discussions on the subject. I carefully followed all the lectures and read all that was written about related issues. Undoubtedly, everything was very interesting and will benefit our vineyards and our wine.

But I too, after many years of practice in the vineyards, would like to mention a few things on the topic, starting with the years 1925-26. I was then an eleven year-old child and my father took me to our vineyard. The vines grown were the local variety Xinomavro which we called the “Black of Naoussa”. The stump most commonly had three branches, sometimes four.  We left two new shoots on every branch, each of which gave one bunch of grapes.

The original ungrafted vines that were growing on our local vineyard soil had great resistance to drought, as opposed to today’s grafted vines that use American or French rootstocks that are common in most vineyards. As a result, we have to talk about whether the Naoussa vineyards need watering or not.  I will refer to my observations I’ve made over 28 years.

I have a five acre vineyard (Editor’s note: This is the old original part of today’s Paliokalia vineyards) that is slightly inclined and that I do not water at all. During dry years when the drought is strong, one of the five acres demands water, else it does not produce good quality grapes. This is because the components of the earth are different from the other four acres. So we see that the soil composition and the slope of the plot both play an important role. Some soils need water, others, such as the more heavy soils, do not.

We cannot make an absolute statement that Naoussa vines need watering or not. And by “watering” I do not refer to regular watering, but only to watering when there is great need because a year is extremely dry. In this case, the vineyard is asking to be watered; this would typically take place around the second fortnight of July. This technique should rarely be applied for a second time, if we want to achieve high quality grapes.

Also we should not clog the young vines, but ensure that there is rich foliage on the tops of the vines during the ripening period, as the leaves will help with nutrition and the ripening process.

In Naoussa it was considered correct that any vineyard should be on a slope facing east so that the morning dew evaporates with the first rays of the sun. If the dew is exposed immediately to the strong sun at a later time of the day, the vine suffers from mildew and other diseases.

When the vines got too old, they were not simply replaced: A cut was taken from the roots so that it grew anew, creating a new vine from itself. This was called “Gerontofytia” (Editor’s note: old plants).

In the decade of 1930 almost all the local vineyards were destroyed by phylloxera. It was then that most vines had to be replaced with American or French rootstocks, which were thought to be resistant to phylloxera. Unfortunately, these vines did not last long, because in the 1940′s the agriculture for peaches, apples, and pears started to flourish. Only few vines were left as a result, among which were our own.

From then onwards, grapes from other regions started coming to Naoussa, more often from Saint Panteleimon, which is known as Pateli. The grapes from Pateli are the same variety but not of the same quality. In the end, it is the specificity of the soil and the climate of Naoussa, which make the wines originating from Naoussa so special.

Finally, I would like to tell current and prospective growers that by working conscientiously, with passion and by relying on the advice of experts, we can make high quality wine. By doing this, we can lift and position Naoussa’s image as the city of wine and vine, as it rightly deserves!

Voice of Naoussa Saturday, March 5, 1988

Konstantinos Dalamaras was 73 years old at the time of this interview. Today, he is 96 years old and still enjoys walks in the vineyards and a glass of red wine each afternoon.

The Dalamaras family still grows the original “old black Naoussa” vines mentioned in the newspaper article by applying the technique of “Gerontofytia”. The ungrafted vines are now more than 90 years old. The label “Vignes Franches” is produced from these vines and is distributed in a very limited number of bottles in the French and Japanese markets.

In this Q&A, Stellios gives his personal view on a number of issues.

1. When did you start making wine?

My family has been making wine for more than a century.  However it has been only since 2004 that I got involved more actively in the winemaking side of the business. I have studied mathematics and economics, so I am a self taught winemaker!  I cannot think of a better job, there is nothing more exciting than following the magic when grapes turn into wine.

2. From your viewpoint, what makes the Xinomavro variety special?

For me, its difficulty makes it special. I have a love-hate relationship with Xinomavro. It is such a difficult variety to
grow and I feel that we have not yet truly mastered it. But we are getting close, we know what we are doing, in the next 5 to 7 years we will see the emergence of truly great wines from the Xinomavro variety.  We focus on preserving the best of today’s characteristics, like the aromas, and the sheer elegance that these wines offer. At the same time, we want to bring out new elements like a softer tannin structure, a fuller body, and a more balanced acidity.

3. Do you export part of your production? How do you promote your wines?

Although we export only 15% of our total production, more than 60% of Ramnista, our 100% Xinomavro wine, is sold abroad.  We focus on the high end of the market and engage in one-on-one marketing activities, like tasting events and wine dinners. Unfortunately, we have not managed to get full mainstream distribution yet in the main export markets.  We will continue to spread the word on Xinomavro to wine lovers all over the world!

4. What are your biggest fears and hopes for 2011?

2011 is a very challenging year for Greece, the news is dreadful and the market analysts sound gloomy. Still, I believe that 2011 will be a pivotal year for exports. I have a feeling that something is happening with Greek wine in the export markets, and Xinomavro and Assyrtiko are leading the way.

3. Do you export part of your production? How do you promote your wines?

Our aim is to carry out the entire production by ourselves. The wine production is a family business. We cultivate 2.1 ha of land with a target production of 12-15,000 bottles annually. In order to achieve the desired high quality we must concentrate on a small quantity production that also requires constant improvement effort. Therefore we export only small amounts, mainly to Germany, Cyprus and from this year on also to the United States.

In regards to the promotion of our products, we believe very much in web marketing and have created a blog to support this effort. We are also currently working on another website that will contain a lot of information about the Xinomavro variety, its wines, its history and its cultivation.

Our aim is to sell our wines directly from our winery to the end consumer. For us, this is the purpose of a winery open to the public: It’s about selling directly to customers, getting acquainted with them, communicating and giving information on the different conditions that make each year special. When we decided to open a winery, one of our aspirations was to have a good time with it, to meet people interested in wine, to create wine connoisseurs and interact with people sharing our wavelength.

We organize many wine-related events throughout the year. We create seasonal themes and connect them to the prevalent stages of the vine growing cycle (pruning, trimming, harvest etc.). We also show local food products (cherries, apples, chestnuts and others). Our communication channel with our old and new friends is the Argatia website and the blog.

4. What are your biggest fears and hopes for 2011?

We hope that 2011 will be as good to us as 2010 was. We are determined to do more towards increasing the number of visitors to our winery in order to master the upcoming challenges.

We believe that tourism and wineries open to the public must become more closely related.  The “Roads of Wine” should more actively create and sell such tourist packages. Greece will continue to be a popular tourist destination, maybe even more so in the times to come. We need to take advantage of this and create the appropriate conditions for tourists to discover true Greek wine.

Greek wine can certainly benefit from exports, but the selfish attitude of many Greek producers is a real problem: We all agree that we can succeed only by working together. However everyone believes that they are the only ones co-operating, and the others are not. We spend too much time on trying to exclude parties we don’t deem suitable, and in the end we lose focus.

I hope that the wine sector’s strategy, which is based on the promotion of local varieties, will bear fruit and not be undermined by the participating producers. For example, it is unacceptable for a group of Greek producers to complain because it was not their wine or their olive oil that was promoted by the Greek Prime Minister. The important thing is that Greek wine and Greek olive oil was promoted. Only if we all believe in this can we have a chance to succeed.

Haroula has an in-depth knowledge of the Xinomavro grape variety, and has participated in many important research projects. I recommend you take a look at her very impressive CV here.

1. When did you start making wine?

Before we started our own winery, Panagiotis and I were already involved in the wine industry for more than 10 years. I started my career as an agronomist in the first interprofessional organization of Greece, the Interprofessional Association of QWPSR Wines “Naoussa”. This was a long time before the creation of the National Interprofessional Organization of Wine and Vine, where Panagiotis was the Director.

After I completed my postgraduate studies in France, I worked for Vitro Hellas as a researcher on vine-related topics, with focus on the clonal selection of Greek varieties. This research eventually led to the writing of my book “Wine Producing Grape Varieties of the Greek Vineyards”. In 2006 I commenced providing freelance consulting services in the wine sector. Panagiotis was director of the Wine Roads of Northern Greece program until 2008 and is now Director of Argatia.

We planted our first Xinomavro vineyard in 1999, at a time when this variety was still highly disregarded by all wine journalists, who supposedly were specialists in their field. They believed Xinomavro only produced wines of an outdated character, empty, with no fruit etc.

But I had faith in this variety. I could see its negative traits, but believed that these could be corrected by clonal selection, meaning the cultivation of clones showing the best quality. I also deemed the application of the right agricultural techniques, which would ensure the production of healthy, balanced plants as highly important.

The biggest enemy of Xinomavro is its own vigorous nature. When this is moderated, we can produce wines that range from average to extraordinary quality, depending on the soil or the weather conditions of each year. These wines are never of poor quality, but always show a unique character, because uniqueness is one of the main features of Xinomavro.

This is somewhat how we started.

2. From your viewpoint, what makes the Xinomavro variety special?

The fickle character of Xinomavro is a challenge for the winemaker to tame. The wine has the capacity to age for many years and develops a complex character and unique aromas over the years. It is aggressive in its youth, but softens beautifully with maturity. It is a variety that leaves its mark, like people with an intense personality do.

Xinomavro vintages vary and lead to wines with different characteristics. Use this guide for those vintages that are currently available in the market, or have yet to be released.

2003 ***

2003 was relatively dry and cool until mid-summer. The application of correct plant protection methods contributed to the production of healthy grapes and permitted a late harvest. The grapes were healthy and ripe, and gave particularly aromatic wines.

2004 ****

2004 saw a delay of the flowering period, due to a high precipitation rate, fairly low temperatures, and unstable sunshine levels. August and September were marked by modest temperatures, low rainfall levels and increased levels of sunshine. The harvested grapes had an unusually high concentration of phenolic compounds and a good aromatic intensity.

2005 ****

2005 was a very good year, marked by overall cool weather conditions. The weather remained fairly dry until June. This was followed by a period of below average temperatures coupled with significant rainfalls. September was a hot and dry month, perfect for the ripening of the grapes.

2006 ***

2006 was a difficult and unusual year in the Naoussa region. Cold and wet conditions in spring delayed the bud break and blooming. Heavy rainfalls in the beginning of summer caused the overgrowth of shoots. July and August saw other extremes, as a prolonged heat wave led to temperatures staying above 32oC/90oF for 50 out of 60 days, with highs of 40oC/104oF. These conditions restrained the vine growth, and a prolonged ripening process of the grapes took place. Heavy rains in September did not have a negative impact. The intense colored grapes showed a good aromatic potential.

2007 *****

2007 started out with particular hot months. Reduced rainfall caused early bud break. Hot temperatures and rain in April led to a rapid growth rate. In July, temperatures climbed to more than 40oC/104oF, causing early stress on the vines. The prolonged hot weather conditions until the end of August resulted in the dehydration of the grapes. The ripening conditions in September were perfect. The grapes showed a healthy balance between sugar and acidity levels, good phenolic ripeness, and also ripe pips. The resulting wines are deep colored, with intense and complex aromatic character, well structured tannins, and potential for long-term ageing. Overall this was a great vintage for Xinomavro.

2008 ****

2008 was a difficult and unpredictable vintage. The year began with relatively low water reserves due to the exceptionally dry season in 2007. A normal growing cycle took place until July. August was a particular dry month, without any rain at all, which is uncommon for the area of Naoussa. The ripening of the grapes took place in record time and veraison was completed in 36 days. One of the problems encountered was that the sugar content in the grapes was raised at a much faster pace than the phenolic ripeness. The harvest started on September 10th, about 2 weeks earlier than usual, making this one of the earliest in recent history. The 2008 vintage seems to be similar to 2005, certainly much better than 2006, likely not quite as good as 2007.

2009 ****

2009 gave respite to the water shortages encountered in the two consecutive prior years of extremely hot and dry conditions. The atmospheric humidity during the growing season was the highest in the last thirty years. Disease controls had to be implemented because the lower summer temperatures resulted in the outbreak of downy mildew. The ripening period was slow and late, allowing for a continuous berry enlargement. The grapes had low acidity levels, but a satisfactory phenolic profile. The harvest took place in mid-October. In this rather difficult year a meticulous selection process, grape by grape, was very important. Despite the challenges, the wines show intense and fine aromas and a charming harmony.

2010 ***

2010 started out with the best of omens. Beneficial rains in spring were followed by hot summer days. Unfortunately, abrupt changes in temperature became one of the major challenges from this point onwards. The defense mechanisms of the vines were activated. This caused the increased production of phenolic compounds in the skins of the grapes. At the same time, the sugar production process was delayed. The bitterness in the skins of the grapes only started to fade away towards the end of September. Part of the harvest in October took place under rainy conditions. Although the difficult conditions would indicate a moderate vintage in terms of quality, at this stage the wines show surprisingly promising. They exhibit a lively color, are fairly low in alcohol with an intense fruit character and soft tannins.

1994 *****
1994 was a particularly hot and dry year. High temperatures during August were followed by a heavy drought in September, which led to a great deal of stress on the vines and finally to the over-ripening of the grapes. The wines are considered to be typical of the variety, with intense, distinct aromas of tomato, dried fig, tobacco and leather on the nose, a full mouth-feel and a long aftertaste.

1995 ****
1995 saw increased rainfall until the time of the harvest. The grapes became infected by diseases, such as botrytis and rot. The harvest was also delayed in comparison to the previous years. The average temperatures during June and July were high. In contrast, during August and September, the most crucial period for the ripening of the grapes, average temperatures were low. The 1995 harvest varied in quality and revealed those vineyards with the best quality potential. The quantity of the harvest was low.

1996 ***
1996 saw low rainfalls at the beginning of the growing season. These became more intense by the end of summer. During August and September there were large fluctuations in mean temperature and sunshine. The heavy rainfalls also affected the quality of the grapes. The ripening of the raw material did not follow its normal course, giving uneven results in terms of quality.

1997 ****
1997 saw high temperatures, increased hours of sunshine and intense rainfall during the growing season. September was a relatively dry period, resulting in a harvest of healthy and ripe grapes. Alcohol levels were high, a feature that opened a whole new page in the chapter of selective harvesting and viticultural methods used. The wines have rich, mainly secondary aromas, a good body weight, a long aftertaste and flavors that are typical of the variety.

1998 **
1998 is considered to be a moderate year, marked by difficulties in the ripening of the grapes throughout the whole Naoussa area. The growing season started with an increase in rainfall during February and May. During mid-July until the end of August, temperatures were high during day and night. Water reserves in the soil were already low because of reduced winter rainfalls. The high temperatures during the ripening period of the grapes shocked the vines. Their photosynthetic activity was reduced and led to a 10-day delay in the ripening of the grapes. Towards the end of August heavy rain returned, which led to the occurrence of scattered botrytis problems. Rainfalls continued in September, making this a challenging year. Growers that implemented plant protection measures and cut yields (as low as 1.5 kg per vine) were able to harvest healthy grapes with a high sugar index and good concentration of phenolic compounds. This led in turn to the production of typical and good Xinomavro wines.

1999 ***
1999 was an overall good year. Due to favourable weather conditions during March and April, germination occurred rather early. The flowering of the vines in May took place under normal conditions and favorable temperatures. But during summer, high temperatures were registered, rising up to 400C/1040F in August. Even at night-time there was no noticeable cooling effect, and the vines went into shock. The harvest was delayed by 15 days despite the fact that this was the rainiest August in 8 years. The health and ripeness of the grapes was satisfactory, the yields quite low, often not exceeding 1.7 kg/vine.

2000 *****
2000 was the year of all years! There were generally dry weather conditions during the whole cultivation period. In spring temperatures were slightly lower in comparison to 1999 and the germination occurred a little later. The flowering of the vines during the month of May took place under normal conditions and favorable temperatures. The summer period started with high temperatures up to 380C/1000F. There was no cooling effect during night-time, causing a shock to the vines. As a result, the shoots stopped growing at a very early stage and the plants started to “work” on the ripening of the grapes. The ongoing draught conditions led to less threat from the various enemies and diseases of the vine. In order to prevent further shock to the plants due to the high temperatures, many winemakers applied one or two careful irrigations in July. August was a hot month, but without any extreme temperatures. A dry September led to a continuation of the normal ripening of the Xinomavro grapes. This gave healthy, small berry sized grapes that were rich in phenolic compounds, with high sugar levels.

2001 ***
2001 was a relatively hot and wet year until the start of August. July rains prevented the stress of the plants, while hot temperatures and lack of rainfalls during August and September led to the good ripening of the Xinomavro grapes. The resulting wines are high in alcohol, with good acidity and a fair quantity of phenolic compounds.

2002
2002 was a particularly rainy year, characterized by high levels of humidity, which led to the development of botrytis and rot. Increased rainfall during the ripening period, in combination with the relatively low temperatures during the same time, led to only moderately ripe Xinomavro grapes. Some estates decided not to produce Naoussa wines at all, because of the poor quality.

I have kept the image of my uncle, Kostakis Nitsiotas, on my mind. I used to watch him when I was young, working on the wines and tasting the content of a vaeni, as we used to call the large oak barrels. Back then, we did not use small containers, but 2, 3 and 5-ton barrels. The idea of ageing the wine in large barrels belongs to another time. What we are working on now is not only the age and the quality of the oak, but also the size of the barrel.

At every tasting he would say “we should leave this for later, it’s still young”, or “this one is ready now”. I remember that all of his comments were about whether the wine was mature enough or not. Years later, when I had all the necessary scientific knowledge, I tried to interpret my uncle’s behavior based on scientific evidence. Estimating the degree of maturity and the various ageing times can open new horizons about the life cycle of a wine.

A young wine can be highly reminiscent of the vines, and of the flavors and the aromas of the grapes. It brings to mind the morning dew, the countryside, the breeze of the mountain or of the sea, happy voices, and the beauty of youth.

Later on, the wine gains beautiful wrinkles and gives flavors and aromas reminding of dark vaults, slow procedures, treated leather and soft fabric, sunset light, or talking about memories and not about expectations. These are the qualities of the old vintages. We try to make old vintages a part of our life. This is what our vines ask for, and this is what the maturity of our people foster.

This beautiful account is from Yiannis Boutaris, one of the most influential figures in the Greek wine world (and currently also the mayor of Greece’s second largest city, Thessaloniki).

Vintages do matter in Greece. While the overall climate is typically Mediterranean, the remarkable topography guarantees plenty of deviations from this norm. Macedonia, where nearly all of the countries Xinomavro vines grow (dominated in acreage by Naoussa), exhibits much cooler climate conditions than many other Greek wine producing regions.

In Naoussa, the harvest of Xinomavro often begins towards the end of September, and its completion typically takes 3 weeks. October is very prone to heavy rainfall, which can be problematic.

The Kir Yianni Estate has kept records of vintage conditions and quality assessments of the resulting wines in the Naoussa region since 1994. I am happy to announce that all of these have now been translated into English for the first time ever as part of the Xinomavro project. In order to fairly represent the region rather than the particular estate, I have further edited the material. This valuable information will be published shortly.